Sunday, November 29, 2020

Texas - Days 15 - 17 - San Angelo

San Angelo State Park, San Angelo
Tuesday, 17 through Thursday, 19 November 2020

I spent all of Tuesday and parts of Wednesday and Thursday in the campground.  On Wednesday I went into town to do a few errands and take a driving tour of the town.  On Thursday I did a few more errands and had coffee with the stepson of my friend John Pabor.  Because there's so much overlap, I'm combining the 3 days into one post.

Campground
This was a comfortable campground, close enough to town that I could pick up an internet signal but still remote enough to be very dark and quiet at night.  I understand there are some bison in the area and, though we didn't see the real thing, we did see these metal sculptures not far from our campsite.

From even a slight distance, these were surprisingly realistic and when I saw them our first night decided not to take the dogs where they could see them, thinking these were real critters.  By the next morning, though, I'd noticed that they were the most immobile real critters I'd ever seen and cautiously took the dogs closer so I could confirm.

The funny thing is that neither of the dogs even noticed them until the 3rd day when I walked the dogs right by the sculptures and watched Dexter do a double-take.  Gracie did too at exactly the same time, and for a minute I had my hands full trying to hang onto them.  But then Dext calmed down and started growling at these strange animals, obviously convinced they were real.  He didn't believe me when I told him they weren't, and we finally had to walk right up to them so he could sniff.  And once he'd sniffed, he acted like they were invisible, and he never paid attention to them again.  It was an odd performance.  Gracie, of course, was much more easy-going about the whole thing and didn't even bother to sniff them, having decided they weren't important.  I think this incident is an illustration of how thoroughly both dogs live through their noses, discounting their eyes entirely if their noses aren't aroused.

I also had a fair view of the lake, which looked suspiciously low from my vantage point, so one day we drove down to take a look.

You can see that this boat launch was left entirely high and dry, with a stretch of actual land between the end of it and the start of the lake.  It reminded me a lot of how Lake Travis outside Austin looked a few years ago when we'd had an extended period of drought.  One of the rangers here told me, though, that there's another boat launch on the other side of the lake that's still usable and is, in fact, being used.  She said folks were bringing in really nice expensive boats to launch into these waters, and she said (dubiously) that she assumed they knew what they were doing.  With the size this lake has shrunk to, though, it doesn't seem like it'd be worth the trouble of launching.

For some reason I never got around to asking about, there's no burn ban in either San Angelo or Tom Green County.  Most other counties I drove through to get here were advertising burn bans, but not here.

Carolina Wren - cute, isn't it?
They're just over 5" long.
I had a brown bird with prominent white eyebrows land on my non-existent window sill one morning.  I think he was just clinging to the framework around the window for a minute, before flying to a nearby tree.  From what I can figure, it was a Carolina Wren - it being the only one with a very definite white eyebrow and longish bill (which I also noticed) that is supposed to be in this area at this time of year.

There are plenty of deer here, and we saw them every morning on our early walks - exciting for the dogs, a nuisance for me.  Luckily for me, very few of the folks who camped near me had dogs, so I didn't have to spend my time dodging them.

San Angelo
For some reason I never figured out, Google's directions didn't at all match with what I found in real life, so I got lost almost as soon as I got to town.  Luckily, I found a street with a familiar name and ended up following my planned itinerary backwards.  That's not as easy as it sounds because I had trouble figuring out whether I should turn left or right, based on instructions coming from the opposite direction.  But I ended up finding the places I'd hoped to see.

One of those was the Concho River, which flows right through town, and the riverwalk park that the town's created along the banks.  It's a shame we got there right about lunch time so many others were out too, and I couldn't take the dogs as far as we both wanted.  But Gracie's ankle was still bothering her sometimes, so we were somewhat limited anyway.  Still, it was a pleasant area and an attractive river.

On Randolph Street, I saw an elaborate mural about the agricultural history of the area.

left side

in the center
right side













These are the 3 pieces of this mural.  But there were many others I saw driving around town, and here's a link to some.   https://www.gosanangelo.com/san-angelo-murals

I also found the county courthouse, which was a real work of art.

The building itself looks fairly square
and dryly official . . .
. . . but I hope you can enlarge this enough
to see some of this detail.
























I drove by Angelo State University, the Railway Museum, found David Street, and stumbled on a place called Old Central Firehouse Bed and Brew.  This last is a large brick firehouse built in 1929 and used as a fire station until 1976.  It's now what they call a "bed and brew" which apparently means their breakfast is nothing much (cereal, yogurt, bagels) but they offer a happy hour for guests to sit around and chat.  And the bedrooms all have firehouse themes.  Here's the link.   https://www.ocfbedandbrew.com

San Angelo is the proud home of Robert E. Lee Middle School - Home of the Rebels.  I'm wondering if there's been any discussion here of considering a name change - or at least a mascot change.  But since more than 85% of the town is White and less than 5% of the town is Black, I'm guessing not much.  The local air force base is named Goodfellow, in memory of a man who fought in WWI, so that won't be one that's up for renaming if the majority of Congress that supports it can override Pres. Trump's objection to changing the names of some military bases.

My visit with Austin
I wasn't too sure about getting in touch with him, mostly because there's about 50 years difference between our ages and almost no history.  I'd met him a few times through John when they were living in Austin (TX) and I was taking care of my mom.  But he seemed glad for the chance to get together, so I suggested meeting for coffee in some outdoor location.  We ended up at at Starbucks not far from the state park.

He turned out to be a remarkable young man.  I'd had only limited conversations with him before, and anyway at his age people can change a lot in a short time.  He's now in his junior year of college, having started as a sports medicine major and now being in the business program.  He told me that in the public school he'd been going to, they insist (his version) that kids choose the direction they want to go with their lives when they're in their freshman year of high school.  I was in my 40s before I had even an inkling of what I wanted to do when I grew up, so if it's true the school was doing that, I can't believe the parents have been passively accepting this.

Anyway, Austin said he'd ended up in sports medicine in 9th or 10th grade, took all the classes his school offered, went to college with that in mind, and just kept on with it, despite not being particularly inspired by it.  He'd stumbled into business education by accident and was thrilled with it.  Business isn't a topic that would thrill me, but it's clearly something he loves.  It's so incredibly lucky to find a field you love when you're still young enough to capitalize on it - and I told him so.  I don't regret much in my life, but I can still see I could have lived a far more productive life if I'd known at his age that law was the field for me.  But I'm lucky I did find it, even though it came late.  Some people never do.

Besides going to school full time, he's working as a mechanic in a bowling alley, and incidentally learning mechanical skills.  He's living with his biological dad, reconnecting with him for almost the first time in his life.  He just seems like a likeable, all-round good kid.  Some people are born lucky, and I think he's one of them.  He said well, he works hard at school and at his job, and I said luck is nothing without hard work attached.  After all, I'm a lucky person but have always been too lazy to take advantage of it.  I told him when he's 85 he'll look back on his life and think how lucky he was.  I was glad we'd both made time for each other.

A final thought
My first roommate in college was a girl from San Angelo.  Her name was Donna, and I have no idea what her last name was because I haven't wanted to remember.  She didn't know any of the other students when she came to the school and seemed to have assumed she and I would be best friends.  I on the other hand knew several people before I came and was glad to renew my friendships with them.  Donna resented feeling left out, because though we tried to include her, she was a stranger to us.  Worse than that, I was accepted in a sorority and she wasn't, though she'd wanted to be.  And aside from all those messy situations, she and I were just not alike in much of anything and wouldn't have been friends even if I'd known no one.  

So our tiny shared room became a war zone of repressed emotions, not something I needed in my first experience away from a very sheltered upbringing.  As a result of all that, I've always thought of San Angelo as a terrible place I never wanted to go to.  (I can be irrational too.)

I don't think I'd feel comfortable living in a place that thinks the Robert E. Lee Rebels are a good idea, but aside from that, I learned there's a lot to this town that's very pleasant, even charming.  I'm glad I came.  And I hope Donna was able to find her way in life and has been happy.


Texas - Day 14 - the drive to San Angelo

San Angelo State Park, San Angelo
Monday, 16 November 2020

For days I've found the air to be super-dry.  The amount of static electricity is practically dangerous and scares my critters.  My skin is flaking off all over my body, despite frequent applications of lotion.  I'm surprised to find I have trouble breathing in this dry air, because I know humidity can also cause problems - maybe I just need something in between.  At any rate, I was starting to search online for portable humidifiers and wondering if I should get one.  Part of the problem is that west Texas has been in drought status for a while, but it's dry country anyway, so the drought just exacerbates it.

So today I start traveling east again.  I'm assuming San Angelo is still going to be dry, but at least it's in the right direction.

today's route
Google informed me this would be a 4-hour drive, which meant it would take me all day so, yet again, I left at 7:30.

On the road
Sunrise was predicted for 7:27 today but I can state with certainty that, where I was, it came up at 7:34.  And it was smack in my eyes for hours.

I heard on the radio that 1 week ago today, there were 10,000,000 cases of COVID-19 in this country; today there are 11,000,000.  One million more people were sickened in one week.  It's appalling and terrifying.

El Paso has become a hot spot, and the whole west Texas area is in trouble, so the whole time I've been in this region I've worn a mask except when walking the dogs, and gloves when I expect to touch anything - at gas stations and grocery stores and campground offices, for instance.  I know they're not guarantees, but one never knows which precautions will make the difference.  And I have been glad to see that almost everyone has been careful to wear masks too, which I didn't expect out here in the Rugged West.

I saw highway signs saying "Watch For Blowing Dust" and "Strong Wind Gusts," which gave me a picture of the usual weather around here.

I passed a turn-off labeled "Boracho Sta" but couldn't find anything online that explained the "Sta" except that it likely stood for station.  The problem with that is there not only isn't a station of any kind around here, but also the old town of Boracho no longer exists.  It's assumed the town's name was a misspelling of the Spanish word borracho, meaning drunk, and of course there's an odd story behind that.   https://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/boracho-tx

I passed the turn-off for Balmorhea State Park, which I'm still sorry I can't visit.  The park is just past the junction between I-10 (toward San Antonio) and I-20 (toward Dallas-Ft. Worth), and I was a little surprised to find that I lost most of the traffic when I chose I-10 and the other folks chose I-20.  But it always makes driving easier when there's less traffic.

I was delighted to find a rest stop, because we all needed a break.  This turned out to be one of the fancier ones I've seen.

At left is a (closed-off) water park, which I doubt any other state rest areas have.  All the picnic tables have covers shaped like these.  There's a shallow ditch running through the rest area, crossed by nice little bridges, that I'm guessing isn't dry when it rains.



There was a nature trail that began with one of the more ominous signs I've seen in a while (below).

There was also an informational sign that had a lot more information than I thought when I first glanced at it.  Titled Flora and Fauna of West Texas - Then And Now, it had the following message at the top:
Welcome to the Texas Department of Transportation's Pecos County Safety Rest Area.  You are standing in the Trans-Pecos region - the area of Texas that is west of the Pecos River and is the only part of Texas where mountain and desert ecosystems are found.  But this area has not always been that way; in fact, it was once a shallow sea and later a woodland.  Follow the chronological timeline below, find the spot where you are now standing in the building map, and then follow the Nature Trail signs to find examples of the present-day flora depicted.

I'm not including the "building map" here, which wasn't so much about buildings but about the rest area layout.  And I didn't take the dogs on the nature walk.  But below is the sign.

detail from left
half of sign - see detail at right and below













90,000 years ago -
detail from sign above
20,000 years ago -
more detail from sign above
























other half of sign - see detail at right
detail from sign at left





























Back on the road, I passed cows and hay.  Scrubland and grazing land and cropland.  Cotton and winter wheat.  An orchard - maybe pecans?  Mountains to the south but not the north.  Old flat-topped hills that look like the dirt has blown away, exposing the bedrock that's the basis for the hills, which wear the exposed bedrock like a crown.

This is the largest flat-topped hill I saw. 
I was particularly taken with its square corners.
This historical marker seems
to explain some of these
hills I've been seeing.



















I heard a young woman on the radio who said she's Latina but doesn't speak much Spanish.  She was talking with some friends who were speaking Spanish and wanted to say she was embarrassed about something.  The word she used was "embarazada" because she thought it sounded like it meant "embarrassed" but, she learned, actually meant "pregnant."  She said "so here we are, just cruising along, and boom! we're embarazada."  (And giggled.)

After Ft. Stockton (which looked really different from I-10 than it did last week from TX 18), I turned off the interstate onto US Hwy. 67/US Hwy. 385.

I passed a large installation with the sign "Greasewood Solar Project" with a vast solar array on both sides of the highway.  It turns out to be the 5th largest photovoltaic setup in the US and has long-term power contracts with the utility companies of Garland, New Braunfels and Kerrville.  

Well, goodness knows they've got sun out here.  In fact, about all West Texas has, as far as I can tell, is land and sun and wind and oil.  All they need are the parts of a transmission system to get these resources to places that need them.  I don't know why anybody bothers trying to farm out here, since water is not one the the region's plentiful natural resources.  

This wind farm stretched much farther than this photo shows -
but it reminded me irresistibly of clichés in old Westerns
with the angry Indians silhouetted against the skyline.
Past the small town of Girvin, I crossed the Pecos River, a name that sounds seriously old-fashioned western to me.  The Pecos turns out to be a traveling fool, originating in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains near Albuquerque, and flowing through northeastern NM and west TX and finally dumping into the Rio Grande (which flows to the Gulf of Mexico).  The Sangre de Cristo Mountains are viewed as the last range of the Rocky Mountains, ending near Albuquerque near the headwaters of the Pecos River, and beginning in Colorado.  I remember well driving through these mountains in both states.

I lost NPR and found lots of Spanish-language radio stations.

The town of McCamey, pop. 1,887, boasts the Mendoza Trail Museum (I can't figure out what that trail is, but the museum claims to have relics from the region's "rowdy" past), as well as a business called Good Old Boys Feed and Supply.

There's lots of prickly pear cactus and mesquite trees out here.  And historical markers and wind farms - I passed several of each.  Also many oil drilling supply companies - more, actually, than the number of oil wells I've seen lately.

As I passed mile after mile after mile of mesquite and cactus with few notable geological features, hot and dusty and dry, I thought this must have been hard country to travel in 100 or 150 years ago.

I crossed West Dutch Woman Draw, and later East Dutch Woman Draw.  I wish someone knew (and said online) who this Dutch woman was and why she got not just one, but two, geologic features named for her.  And in case you're not quite certain what a draw is (I wasn't) here's the link.   https://en.wikipedia.org/Draw-terrain

As I went farther east I started seeing hills, lots of hills.  Also sheep, cows, horses and goats.

San Angelo is in Tom Green County.  I've always been curious about that name so I finally got around to looking him up.  The thumbnail sketch is that he fought in the Texas Revolution in 1835-36 under Gen. Sam Houston.  Then he was clerk of the Texas Supreme Court until the Civil War, when he served for the Confederacy in the cavalry.  He died in 1864.  So I'm guessing the county's name was for the Republic of Texas hero, rather than as yet another Confederacy honoree.

San Angelo has just over 100,000 residents and the 1st HEB Grocery I've seen since I've been in Texas.

And on to the state park, where I'm booked for the next 4 nights.


Texas - Day 13 - El Paso

Mountain View RV Park, Van Horn
Sunday, 15 November 2020

today's route
detail of El Paso route
On the road
Once again, I was on the road by 7:30 because I knew today was going to be a long one, full of driving.  Even Google said it would take 2 hours to get from the campground into El Paso, and that would assume I was actually driving the 80 mph speed, which of course I wouldn't be going anywhere near, and also of course I'd have to drive at least 2 hours back again.

For a short distance I still got NPR and heard this week's Puzzlemaster puzzle, which I was astounded to find I could solve in my head in very little time.  Perry Mason just popped into my head as soon as he'd given the clue, and from there it didn't take long to come up with pray and sermon, though it was a bit harder doing it in my head than on paper.  Usually I don't even understand the puzzles, let alone have an idea how to solve them, so this was a once in a lifetime thing.  Not that I planned to enter, but I was still pleased with myself.

Like the view I got 2 days ago on US 90 from Marfa, I-10 covers flat land that runs to a ring of mountains all around.  But after a while, I started losing the mountains on the north side, while those on the south side got closer.

We passed by the town of Sierra Blanca which, for some reason, seems to have lots of motels but almost no national chains.  From the highway, the town looks very poor.  I'm attaching the link to its Wikipedia page because of the unusual mix of information here - everything from trainloads of sewage brought from New York City to proposed nuclear waste site denied due to high seismic activity there to well-known people being arrested at a nearby checkpoint for narcotics and weapons.  https://en.wikipedia.org/Sierra-Blanca  None of this shows from the interstate (one of my problems relying on interstates for travel).

At the exact moment I got shoved sideways by strong winds, I saw a sign saying "High Wind Gusts."  Farther along, going past a mountain meant I hit some really squirrely winds being mismanaged by the mountain.

We stopped to take a walk at a rest area, and I think Gracie must have twisted her ankle.  At first I thought she was limping because of stickers, because Dexter did get a couple in his foot.  But after checking Gracie's foot (and all the others) 3 times, I decided it wasn't a sticker problem.  I remember one or the other of the dogs having this same problem some time ago, where he or she limped around for a few days and gradually limped less often as the leg got stronger.  I just hoped it was the same thing here and I wasn't going to have to find a vet to take a look at her.  But she had a definite limp all day.

I continued to see flat land dotted with houses and farms; a feed lot with the cows' heads stuck through that metal framework I've seen before and birds flying overhead; a small community huddled at the base of a mountain.

By the time I was about 2/3 of the way to El Paso, I noticed the mountains had greatly receded all around and had ended entirely in the west - though I knew that wouldn't last because El Paso's got plenty of mountains nearby.

I started seeing a very strong Texas Highway Patrol presence and, at one point, they had 2 vehicles stopped at once on either side of the road - and one was a semi, which I rarely see.

There was little traffic for most of the drive in because it was pretty early on a Sunday morning.  But after 2 hours of driving, when I got to the El Paso area it was late enough for there to be plenty of traffic.  At one point a motorcyclist passed me in my lane when somebody else was in the lane next to me.  What on earth made that idiot think I wasn't going to suddenly jerk to the side (because so many driver/texters do things like that), or that a wind gust wouldn't do the jerking for me?  It was scary and infuriating.

Manhattan Heights Historic District/Scenic Drive
My first aim was for the Scenic Drive Overlook, which I accidentally found online and assumed it was a scenic viewpoint on a drive above the city.  For once, Google's directions were good enough that I got to the entrance to the drive with no problem.  Sadly, the entrance was as far as I got. The first thing I saw was a sign saying No Vehicles Allowed.  Except by then I was already into the street and would be forced to back up - and except the sidewalk area was crowded with people, including many children - and I was terrified I'd hit somebody in trying to extricate myself.

I finally got the attention of passing pedestrians (through Dexter's window, he was very interested) and asked if there was some kind of event.  They said the Scenic Drive is closed every Sunday from 7:00 until noon.  Too bad there wasn't any mention of it online.  Anyway, I asked for their help in backing up and they said I didn't need to because, see that little street up ahead?, I was allowed to go up there and it made a loop around to where I started.  And it did.

Where I started was right by a park that covered a city block and, unusually, was covered with real grass, which was green.  They must pay a fortune to keep it watered, but it was like an oasis.  The park was part of Manhattan Heights Historic District, which was obviously one of the nicer parts of town and certainly had one of the better views.

You can see a bit of Newman Park in the foreground, 
and the beginning of the Scenic Drive climbing in the background.
Between the 2 are some of the neighborhood houses.
I thought these houses looked both unusual
and expensive, but imagine the view!

a bit of the view from the park

























The houses surrounding the park, and in the vicinity, were primarily stucco and reminded me of a very fancy upscale neighborhood in Mexico.  And, the fact is, that view (above) probably includes Mexico.

I managed to find my way back down the hill by a non-Google-sanctioned route with no problem.  This time I was aiming for the St. Patrick Cathedral.

St. Patrick Cathedral

Dedicated in 1917, this church serves local Catholics, who make up nearly 50% of the population.  It looks much more impressive in person, because our eyes let us filter out all those street lights and things.

I passed through 2 more historic districts: Rio Grande Historic District, which includes some wonderful old houses and reminded me of the way Austin looked before gentrification, and the Downtown Historic District, which includes the San Jacinto Plaza, because every Mexican town must have a plaza.

I passed by part of Univ. of Texas-El Paso, which has more than 20,000 enrolled, including 80% Mexican-American students.  In fact, it's 2nd only to the UT campus in the Rio Grande Valley for being the largest US college with a majority Mexican-American enrollment.  Apparently it has a strong post-graduate degree program.  I noticed too that the El Paso Community College has several campuses around the area, all of which meant to me that education is important in this town.

I passed the Consulate General of Mexico and was sorry I didn't know until later that only 3 blocks away was the 1800s Mexican Consulate, which was likely worth seeing.

I belatedly found this website with 9 - not the 10 it says - factoids about El Paso.   https://www.tripsavvy.com/interesting-historical-facts-about-el-paso

I've only been in El Paso a few times before - usually just passing through on my way east or west.  Our family was here when I was a teenager, but I remember only our trips into Juárez and nothing about El Paso.  So this was my first real time here and I was surprised to discover that I found it a charming place.  I wished I'd been able to get reservations at Hueco Tanks State Park, which is much closer to town, or that I wasn't restricting myself to staying within the borders of the state-of-the-month so I could stay at nearby New Mexican campgrounds.  Some other time, though, I'd like to come back.

Back on the road
I've noticed before, and I noticed it today, that the return trip always seems shorter than the outgoing trip.  And as often before, I saw different things.

The first was something I saw when I stopped for gas on my way out of town.  Highway decorations.



These are deceptive - I didn't even notice them at first.

I saw highway signs telling me how far I was from Dallas (581 miles at milepost 51) and San Antonio (510 miles at milepost 79).

In El Paso I saw lots of signs for Fort Bliss, one of the largest of all US Army posts.  On the road I saw license plates from many states - OH, CA, ID, TN, PA - and wondered if some of them were here because of Ft. Bliss.

I saw a sign saying "Inspection Station - All Trucks Exit" but, in fact, they made everybody exit.  It turned out to be a Border Patrol checkpoint.  They asked me how many people were on board and was I a US citizen, and I guess I looked honest because that was that.  They had signs saying they used search dogs and I had a sudden clear memory of a search dog going crazy in my little Volvo back in the early '70s when my friend Paula and I had finished a joint just before reaching the border on our way home from Mexico.  My how times change.

I passed a semi/trailer that had a sign on the side saying "ecofeatherweight.com" and "increased capacity, reduced emissions."  Yes, times are changing.

I was pleased to see a state trooper stopping a silver Kia that had passed me earlier.  The speed limit here was 80 mph, which shows how fast the Kia was likely going to warrant getting stopped.

Van Horn sits just barely to the east of the line between the Central and Mountain Time zones.  Since I was only in El Paso for the day, I didn't bother changing my clocks, which meant I was there even earlier than I'd thought I was.

It was a lot of driving but I'm glad I took the trip.  I'm just sorry I couldn't camp any closer so I could spend more time there.  


Saturday, November 28, 2020

Texas - Day 12 - in the Van Horn campground

Mountain View RV Park, Van Horn
Saturday, 14 November 2020

This is a strange RV park.  It's long and narrow, with one end on the I-10 frontage road and the other abutting farmland.  It's laid out to have 2 entrances, but one on the side is blocked off with large rocks, leaving between the rocks and the campground a stretch of pavement and part-pavement that's big enough for another RV park.  

The campground has a huge dog park that runs half the length of the RV park, but it has only one entrance instead of the several it should have to be convenient.  And that entrance is not in the middle of the dog park where it might be useful to many but instead at one end where some (including my dogs and me) have to walk almost the length of the dog park to enter the dog park.  

There's no litter to speak of, but the campground still gives an impression of slovenliness.  Part of that was likely the dustiness of a west Texas town.  But part was also the owner's appearance - he was enormously fat and, with his face mask barely covering even his mouth, seemed insanitary.  I knew while I was still registering yesterday that I wouldn't be using their showers, though I may have just been prejudiced.  

He kept telling me I could have any space I wanted except for the driveway, but there was no driveway marked either in real life or on the campground map.  When I told him which spot I wanted, he insisted I was talking about another spot.  And when I finally said "see that rock next to the tree down there? that's where the site is" he said "oh no, that's the driveway" and never mind that it's clearly labeled as a site both in real life and on the map.  Grrr.  So he gave me the site next to it.

Then when I wanted to take the dogs out at bedtime yesterday (and these days bedtime's pretty early, with the sun going down right at 6:00), I saw a pair of dogs wandering around without leashes or human beings in sight.  And I continued to see them wandering around near our RV for the next half hour and finally went outside to find out who they belonged to, and met the night manager who was doing the same thing.  He finally concluded they were strays, which instantly reminded me of those strays at the campground in Alabama that antagonized my dogs into pulling me across a gravel road.  One of those gouges I got then took months to heal and I have a very visible scar as a result - which I showed the night manager to emphasize that he needed to get a handle on those stray dogs.

I didn't see those dogs again, or any other dogs without humans, but the incident was unnerving.  In fact, I didn't have any trouble again with the campground while I was there, but my overall impression was not a happy one.  I'd made a reservation here for 3 nights and planned to stay for 4, but what with one thing and another, I decided to cut out after only the 3 I'd paid for.

On the plus side, I spent all day today playing catch-up on my blog and got 3 more posts written and published.  The dogs got some long walks and things were pretty quiet.

I've got these funny photos of Gracie I took yesterday.



















Remember, she's a black dog with a little white on her.  With this coating of dust she acquired, it's not easy to tell where the original white starts.  As a reminder, this photo of Dext is the black she's supposed to be.


Glossy, yes, but still black.  Gracie just loves to roll in sand.  And dirt and leaves - fall is her favorite season because of the leaves she can roll in.  Dexter seems to go for scent, though thankfully so far it's always been a scent I couldn't detect with my inferior non-doggy nose.


Texas - Day 11 - McDonald's Observatory, Fort Davis, Marfa, Van Horn

Mountain View RV Park, Van Horn
Friday, 13 November 2020

today's route
My first goal today was the McDonald's Observatory (part of UT-Austin), a place I've long been wanting to visit.  I left Alpine at 7:30 because, even though Google said this part of the drive would take less than an hour, it looked like I'd be driving through mountains and I wanted to be sure to get there on time. 

I don't know what the McDonald's Observatory does with visitors during non-pandemic times, but what they do now is allow visitors for 90 minutes, at specified times twice a day, 4 days a week for general admission.  They also offer small-group guided tours, as well as nighttime visits.  The only nearby campground was the Davis Mountains State Park, which is very small and was very full when I planned to be there, so that made a night visit impossible.  I opted for a morning slot (10:00-11:30) to have enough time to drive on to Van Horn afterwards.

On the road
The countryside I traveled through was quite varied.

mountains, as expected
a lot of flat land, as not expected






















At Fort Davis, I passed the Chihuahuan Nature Center & Botanical Garden.  I didn't stop, but they say they display the range of plants native to this area, which would be interesting if I'd be in the area longer.

From Ft. Davis, the road begins a steady climb, past the state park, and on up to the observatory.
observatory buildings on top of mountains
You can just see the road in my photo.  It leads to the Visitor Center, which isn't very far below those buildings on the other side of the mountain.  I learned the road continues to the summit, though I didn't go up there, and that, at 6,791', it's the highest public road in Texas.

These are those same buildings, taken from the Visitor Center.

The larger of those at the mountain top is the Harlan J. Smith Telescope, 107", put into service in 1969.  It helped the Apollo space program and NASA's robotic missions to the planets.

The smaller is the Struve Telescope, 82", and when it was put into service in 1939 was the world's 2nd largest telescope.

Both these telescopes are still being used.

The nearer building (above) houses one of the 6 smaller telescopes near the Visitors Center and I think they're the ones used by visitors.  One of them is constructed to allow use by people in wheelchairs.

Also near the Visitors Center is a radio telescope (at right).  It's part of the Geodetic Observatory and helps scientists understand things like the shape, rotation and gravitational field of the earth.  This results in improved navigational systems and better prediction of earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanic activity.

In front of the Visitors Center is a very handsome sundial, and I was pleased with myself for realizing that's what it was right away, even though from a distance it was just a rock.
























In November, they say deduct 17 minutes.
Because we weren't on Daylight Savings
Time, the sundial was absolutely correct.










Many of the exhibits in the Visitors Center were intended to be interactive and, in these stupid virus days, they were off-limits.  But they were kept in semi-darkness to enhance viewing, which meant taking photos was challenging.  I had a hard time holding the camera still for long enough to get the exposure right for those low light levels, but these are the photos that seemed decipherable.

I'm rearranging the order of their exhibits to make more logical sense to me, a non-scientist.

Science for the Non-scientist:

















Secrets of Starlight
Almost everything we know about the universe comes from starlight.



























Light Is More than Meets the Eye
There are more kinds of light in our world than the light we normally see.


































Different views of Galaxy M51 (and with names like this, no wonder people think scientists lack poetry in their souls):

This too is Galaxy M51.



















































Some scientists:
Joseph Fraunhofer
1787 - 1826

















Annie Jump Cannon
1863 - 1941


















Cecelia Payne-Gaposchkin
1900 - 1971












Gérard de Vaucouleurs































Antoinette de Vaucouleurs
1921 - 1987







Establishing an Observatory:































The Telescopes:

The Struve Telescope:




discovery using the Struve Telescope


detail from photo above
referring to photo at left


This photo's not completely clear,
but I think these are all white men - a sign of the times.

The Harlan J. Smith Telescope:


photo of the mirror
planted on the moon
in 1969 (see info at left)




















The Hobby-Eberly Telescope:






















And in the et cetera category, they had these:
meteorite (see below right)
see above left



















the 1881 microscope


















I was surprised that this poster was the only thing in the Visitors Center that mentioned the importance of dark skies.  I've heard this phrase in many other places but, surprisingly, not here.  

This link gives a summary of the importance of preserving dark skies.   https://www.thesca.org/why-dark-skies-need-be-preserved  

And this one is a list of the recognized Dark Sky Parks in the US.  And if Dripping Springs, TX, can get on this list, it should be doable by many more communities.   https://www.worldatlas.com/dark-sky-parks




Back on the road
It's odd what a different view you can get of a scene depending on the direction you're traveling (a metaphor for life).  So going back down the mountain, I saw scenery I didn't notice on the way up.


fall colors in the mountains
Fort Davis
Going through town again I saw 2 deer in the yard of a house and assumed they were statues, because I see so much of that.  Then one of them moved.  I'd been so sure.  Odd experience.

Fort Davis is a small town but heir to a lot of history.  The history, the nearness to the observatory, and the relative nearness to Big Bend National Park (several hours away, but it's all relative Out Here in the West) combine to make Ft. Davis an unexpected tourist place.  I passed the Hotel Limpia, the Butterfield Inn and the Prude Guest Ranch, among others.  

That Hotel Limpia, by the way - the word limpia means clean in Spanish and not far from town are the headwaters of Limpia Creek.  I'm sure that's where the hotel's name came from, but it struck me as funny that a hotel would be named Hotel Clean - I mean, one would certainly hope . . . .

Also in town is the Overland Trail Museum, and the Overland Trail, I learned, was the road from San Antonio to El Paso and a remnant of it still exists near the museum.  And of course there's the Fort Davis National Historic Site, which was in operation from 1854 to 1891 primarily to protect the travelers on the Overland Trail and the Chihuahua Trail, and is "one of the best surviving examples of an Indian Wars' frontier military post in the southwest," per Wikipedia.

Back on the road
I noticed many of the houses in this area are what I think of as the style of Mexico/New Mexico in appearance, and probably in construction.

I passed a farm of Registered Quarter Horses, and saw a fair number of horses here and there along the road.

Because I was curious about the name of the Davis Mountains, I looked it up and learned they were named for Fort Davis, which in turn was named for the then-Secretary of War Jefferson Davis, who of course later went on to be a traitor to his country by serving as the only president of the Confederacy.  I know it's impossible after so many years (170+) to rename all these things, but think of it - we don't have an awful lot of places in the US named for Aaron Burr (and he was acquitted at trial).

I nearly hit another tumbleweed and started wondering what kind of plant it is.  There were lots of them by the side of the road, having already tumbled.  The internet says it could actually be any of several plants, all of which have the characteristic of detaching from their root systems when they become mature and dry.  So it's not just one kind of plant.  Who knew?

Marfa
Marfa has been making the news for a while now for various reasons, so I was curious to see it.  And once again my preconceptions were completely and entirely wrong.  I'd pictured a few houses and buildings huddled together at a crossroads.  Take a look.

You can see from the photo (internet, of course) that this is no tiny crossroads place.  It's an actual town.

The large building on the left (above) is the Hotel Paisano.  Opened in 1930, it's on the US Register of National Historic Places and was the headquarters for the cast and crew of Giant when it was filmed here in 1955.  It has a quirky history, as befits a town with a quirky reputation.   https://hotelpaisano.com/history  Now that I've seen the location, maybe I finally need to watch the movie, though I understand it's 3½ hours long, which is a genuine commitment.

Presidio County
Courthouse
The courthouse (this is my photo) is a good illustration of the fact that this is a real town.  It's big and it's old and it's really pretty.

I suppose it was to be expected, but the only political signs I saw around here were Biden/Harris signs.

The one thing I was right about is that Marfa is on a crossroads - I turned from TX 17 onto US 90, heading northwest to Van Horn.  Just out of town I saw a large display for Giant that was so surprising, I couldn't really comprehend it while I was passing.  Short of turning around and going back for another look, I decided to say it's one of those things you should see for yourself.

Back on the road
I passed a billboard that said "Eat Like a Texan - Dairy Queen."  Seemed an odd thing to say, out here in the smack middle of west Texas but sounding like it's back near a border, except it is near a border.  If you head south from Marfa, TX 17 changes its name to US 67 and runs 60 miles to Presidio, which is a border town with Mexico.  So yeah, 60 miles is near a border by west Texas standards.

Marfa Public Radio played The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance and I was surprised to realize I knew from the 2nd note what it was going to be.  I did see this movie and have long admired it.

Farther along the road I saw a lone bicyclist heading south, out in the middle of absolutely nothing.  I suppose he was headed to Marfa for the evening, because we were already well into the afternoon by this time.

It was about in here that I started seeing something odd in the sky.  I took that photo when I was much much closer than when I got my first glimpse.  Eventually I passed a building with a sign saying Tethered Aerostat Radar System.  I now know that an aerostat is a moored balloon used as a radar platform or, more precisely, a "large fabric envelope filled with helium that can rise to an altitude of 15,000' while tethered by a single cable."  Since the mid-80s, they've been used to fight illegal drug trafficking.  So I guess I was getting tracked.  Something about that feels creepy to me.

All along this road there's lots of flat land surrounded by mountains.

I heard on the radio that the combined deaths in the Vietnam and Korean Wars are less than we've already had from COVID-19.  Why, oh why, is it so hard for people (like, say, all of South Dakota) to understand that it's real.  I heard somebody say on the radio that you can't stop a fire that's spreading from town to town when some towns don't fight it.

I passed a sign saying the litter patrol in that area was being done by the Friends of the People's Republic of Valentine, which sounded like fun.  But then I came to a sign marking the city limits of Valentine, pop. 217.  So I've looked it up and there are several odd things about this.  First is that it's been a while since the population was that big: it was 187 in 2000 and 134 in 2010.  Second is that it's the only incorporated town in Jeff Davis County but is not the county seat.  That honor went to the town of Ft. Davis, which is not incorporated.  Third is that it has 2 odd claims to fame: each year hundreds of people send their valentines to be postmarked here for mailing, and it's the location of the well-known (in Texas) Prada store that's not a store.

This is an internet photo, but it's also what I saw.  And when I went by it was complete with a tourist couple who had stopped to take a look.  I was tempted to stop and ask what they thought, but in these strange virus days . . . .

Valentine has more to it than meets the eye (which frankly isn't much at all), and you might want to take a look at this more complete description, including information about the Prada store.  https://fortdavis.com/valentine

I passed - and later was passed by - a Border Patrol car.

I passed a sign saying Watch for Blowing Dust.

I passed a large orchard, though there weren't any signs saying what kind of.  I passed cotton and soybeans (I think).

I heard on the radio that in every state - red states and blue states - every ballot proposition to do with loosening restrictions on drugs passed.  Our country is changing right before our eyes.

And I got to Van Horn, a comparatively large town at 2,500.  I stopped at the grocery store - Porter's Grocery is the chain I found in every town from Alpine up to here.  It's part of the IGA chain and here, though small, got me most of what I wanted, which is all I ask of a grocery store.  And then on to the campground, where I have a reservation for the next 3 nights.

Today was Friday the 13th, and all day I was a little concerned about possible trouble, since I spend so much time on the roads.  But I managed to make it through being nothing but tired at the end of a long day so, very lucky.