Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Alabama - Day 19 - Selma

The Woods RV Park
Thursday, 19 December 2019

I spent several hours this morning calling all the dog grooming places I could find, both in the Montgomery area and, failing that, in the Ozark area.  It had finally dawned on me that Anna and David are driving all the way from Texas over to Ozark, AL, to spend a couple of days at Christmas with us, and the dogs and the RV all smell very strongly of dirty dog.  Okay for me - I'm used to the smell - but not something I wanted to invite even family to put up with for 2 days.

I learned that everybody else in both towns have had the same idea and all the groomers are booked until after New Year's.  Finally, I found a vet clinic that said they could do grooming, and since all I needed were shampoos and brush-outs for the dogs - no actual hair cutting - I convinced them they could fit my critters in.  I made an appointment for first thing tomorrow morning.

Today I went west to Selma to learn about the March from Selma to Montgomery.

today's route
On the road
I saw fields of cows and sheep (not together).  I saw 2 cows with coloring that belonged to horses: they were both gray with very dark gray necks and heads.  Really pretty, but I've never seen a cow that color.

In some places the road was lined with a thick hedge of bamboo, reminding me that I am in the South.

I'm sorry that I also saw a lot of litter.  In fact, I've been seeing a lot of litter much of the time I've been in Alabama.

The road between the 2 cities runs over quite a few hills.  I'd get to the top of one and be able to look ahead to several more hills to come and think, "This is the road all these people walked - walked - all those years ago."  They're some real hills and folks weren't wearing jeans and tennies back then.

Selma
I first drove around Selma a bit.  My best description would be that most of the buildings in downtown show signs of faded glory - you can see they were once beautiful but haven't been maintained very well.  I'm not sure how much money is in that town, given its appearance.

I saw maybe 4 different presentations of the events leading up to, and including, the March.  Two versions at the National Park Service's Selma Interpretive Center, another one at their Lowndes Interpretive Center, and another one in their brochure.  (See, the Park Service can produce a bunch of information when they want to, which is what was so frustrating for me at Tuskegee.)

It's taken me some time to sort through all this for a timeline of events, but I think I've got it.

Chronology
(1)  Dallas County, where Selma is, was one of the more reluctant counties to allow African-Americans their right to vote.  As early as 1933, the Dallas County Voters League (DCVL) formed to help register black voters.  By 1961, only 156 of the potential 15,000 black voters were registered.  The county's record was so bad, even the US Justice Department asked for records from county registrars, but the county got a judge to block the request.

(2)  Jim Clark, a devout segregationist with a bad temper, was elected county sheriff in 1955.

(2)  In February 1963, SNCC (Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee) came in to town to help with voting clinics.  But when blacks tried to register to vote at the county courthouse, Sheriff Clark and his deputies attacked and harassed them - an obstacle as difficult as the alleged literacy tests they were given.

(3)  In July 1964, the local court handed down an injunction prohibiting freedom of assembly for black voters.  The DCVL leaders continued to meet secretly.

(4)  In December 1964, the DCVL decided they needed help and asked the Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC) to assist.  The SCLC was headed by Martin Luther King, Jr.  By this time, MLK had become deeply convinced in the power of "nonviolent direct action"; he knew the aggressiveness of Sheriff Clark would be perfect for promoting their cause nationally.  (As it turned out, Sheriff Clark may have been instrumental in the passage of the 1965 Voting Rights Act.  Irony is everywhere.)

(5)  January 2, 1965, despite the injunction against large gatherings of African-Americans, MLK gave an inspirational speech at Brown Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church.
   Selma's segregationist mayor was becoming concerned about the effect of negative press coverage on attracting industry and business to town.  He tried to limit Sheriff Clark's authority and kept him from interfering with the MLK gathering, but the mayor's control didn't last long.

(6)  January 18th, about 400 blacks marched from the church to the courthouse a few blocks away to register to vote.  Sheriff Clark didn't allow anyone to register.  They did this again on January 19th; Clark ordered them to move; one woman moved too slowly for him and he grabbed her and shoved her toward a patrol car, then arrested many others.  National news media were there, and photos of the woman being dragged to the patrol car made front pages.

(7)  January 22nd, more than 100 black school teachers marched to the courthouse to register.  The sheriff and his deputies shoved them away from the courthouse with nightsticks.  The teachers' courage inspired students and others who had previously been afraid of getting involved.

(8)  February 18th, down the road from Selma, in Marion, Rev. James Orange led a group of African-Americans on a march to their courthouse to register to vote; he was arrested and jailed.  Rumors were rampant that a mob would lynch him that night, so about 400 folks marched to the courthouse that evening in his support.  State troopers and angry whites stopped them, assaulted them and chased many back to their church.  Some ran away and hid in businesses.  Among those was Jimmie Lee Jackson, who hid in a cafe to protect his mother and grandfather.  A state trooper shot Jackson in the stomach; he died a week later.

(9)  Angered by his death, a speaker at his memorial service said he was ready to walk to Montgomery to talk directly to Gov. Wallace.  Most of those at the service agreed with him.  Plans were made, and it was agreed to begin the march from Selma.

(10)  A week later, on March 7th, the March to Montgomery began with 600 people leaving the Brown Chapel AME Church.  They got as far as the Montgomery side of the Edmund Pettus Bridge on the way out of town, where the marchers were met by a phalanx of state troopers, local cops and a mounted posse, as well as some white segregationists.  The marchers asked to speak to the person in charge, and one minute later law enforcement charged at them, knocking them down and kicking them, beating them with nightsticks, whips and rubber tubes, chasing them on horseback.  Many wanted to retaliate, but movement organizers convinced them not to.  Their nonviolent reaction worked.  The entire country was horrified at footage of the unprovoked police violence appearing on their nightly news programs.  This was called Bloody Sunday.
   MLK sent out a call to ministers and others around the country to join him in a Ministers March on the 9th.  Planeloads poured in to the area.

(11)  March 8th, a local judge issued an injunction on any further marches until a hearing could be held.  This put MLK in a bind: he had already announced the Ministers March, but he didn't want the protesters to be seen as violating any laws; he felt it would weaken their cause with the general public.

(12)  March 9th, the ministers marched as far as the bridge; when they were met by police, they knelt to pray and then turned back, not wanting to violate the court order.
   That night, a white minister from Boston, Rev. James Reeb, was beaten by the KKK and died March 11th.
   A vigil for Rev. Reeb turned into a constant stream of marchers going from Brown Chapel to the courthouse.  Selma's mayor banned marches and ordered protesters keep to Brown Chapel or 1st Baptist Church.  A rope was put up to mark the barrier, called the "Berlin Wall," reinforced by rows of law enforcement.  The protesters were kept prisoners there for 6 days and nights.

(13)  March 14th, college students formed a protest at the capitol in Montgomery; police and mounted deputies chased the students down the street with clubs and whips.

(14)  March 15th, Pres. Johnson made a special address to Congress to transmit what became the Voting Rights Act.  I don't know who wrote his speech, but it's really good.   http://www.lbjlibrary.org/johnsons-special-message-to-congress

(15)  March 17th, the judge lifted the injunction and allowed the March to Montgomery to proceed, but he limited them: in Lowndes County, between Dallas County (Selma) and Montgomery County, no more than 300 marchers would be allowed, due to the narrow highway and the difficulty in protecting them from white objectors; on either side of the county line, they could have as many marchers as they wanted.
   Gov. Wallace refused to provide protection for the marchers so LBJ put the Alabama National Guard under federal control and sent in additional US marshals and FBI agents.  The Guardsmen were sullen about the duty, but at least this time they were on the protecting end of things.

(16)  March 21st, thousands marched from Brown Chapel AME Church to the Lowndes County line; on March 22nd, the road narrowed to 2 lanes at the county line and 300 marched from there;  on March 24th, they reached the Montgomery county line and camped one last night at a Catholic facility; on March 25th, 25,000 rallied at the state capitol.  They had come 54 miles.
   Viola Liuzzo, a white housewife from Detroit who had been disturbed by news reports, had come down to help the marchers; on March 25th, KKK members shot and killed her.

(17)  August 6th, LBJ signed the Voting Rights Act of 1965.

Photographs

The culmination in 1965:
MLK brought a new strategy to the movement: nonviolence.












January 18th, people lined up to register to vote -
they were arrested for parading without a permit












The opposition:
Sheriff Jim Clark

the mindset behind that quote is interesting
March 7th, Bloody Sunday:

From the top of the bridge they saw a mass of
 blue uniforms below - but they kept marching.
at the foot of the bridge - in front:
John Lewis (in the white coat) and Hosea Williams 













the officers kept walking - in the middle you can see
John Lewis's back with his backpack in the center of the crowd
the officers walked right over people and kept on walking
(these last 2 photos are blurred - they were on a video)














March 9th, Turn Around Tuesday:
ministers kneeling in prayer

March 14th, Student Protest in Montgomery:


March 21st-25th, March to Montgomery:
They're dressed up in suits and heels.  















Some of them walked the entire 54 miles to Montgomery.

that's the capitol in the background


















The Capitol is the same building where Jefferson Davis was sworn in as president of the Confederacy in 1861, and the official home of the Confederate government until it was moved to Richmond.  It's called the Cradle of the Confederacy.  And on March 25, 1965, 25,000 of those the Confederates didn't acknowledge to be people gathered to demand the right to vote they were guaranteed when they were born in America.

Quotes




note: quote from the Deputy Attorney General of the US


quote from John Lewis









speaking at the 50th Anniversary celebration
One person who was marching on Bloody Sunday talked about the horror of the police attack.  She said they didn't stop at the bridge but kept coming on and on.  The mounted police chased people for blocks back to the churches and rode their horses up the steps of the First Baptist Church where she'd taken refuge.

Another person talked about disregarding the risk of death: "Are you committed so deeply that dying is a secondary matter?"

Afterwards
Racism didn't die when the Voting Rights Act passed.  But at least the poll tax and literacy tests were eliminated and African-Americans were allowed to vote.

Before:
2.1% of all blacks in Alabama were registered to vote.  In Lowndes County, none were registered.


After:
Some of those in Lowndes County who registered to vote that year were tenant farmers, and they were evicted from their homes and the land they'd farmed.  Some stayed with family, but 40 families stayed in the county and created a tent city.  They lived there for 4 months during that winter, and SNCC helped them find jobs and housing.

... so much for Sheriff Clark



beginning of the Black Panther Party












In one way, it all happened so fast: MLK came to town in December 1964.  By March 1965, LBJ introduced the Voting Rights Act to Congress.  But of course, the struggle for the right to vote had been going on since Jim Crow laws reasserted white power over black after Reconstruction.  And given the number of assaults on voting rights that are current headlines, the struggle is still going on.

These folks had so much to lose - their jobs, their homes, their health and their lives.  Many were too afraid to risk that.  But when they had the chance, they registered and voted in large numbers, eventually exerting a great deal of electoral power - exactly what the wealthy white landowners had feared.

Several of the presentations I saw were aimed at young people, many of whom don't bother to vote, to educate them about the price that was paid by others to give them the right to vote.  But I don't think it's just young people - the 50 years that have passed have produced 2 generations of voters, not just the young, and a lot of people in their 30s and 40s, black and white, fail to vote.  These videos should be shown to seniors in schools around the country, who can take the information home to their parents, and maybe create a renewed interest in voting, and in protecting voting rights from the continued assaults.


Sunday, December 22, 2019

Alabama - Day 18 - north to Montgomery

The Woods RV Park, Montgomery
Wednesday, 18 December 2019

Because I had more places I wanted to visit in the Montgomery area than on the Gulf Coast, I decided to go north today and leave the coast for the end of the month.

Ruby crowned Kinglet
I've been seeing tiny little birds in the last several campgrounds and, after much study of the bird book, I've concluded they're probably Ruby crowned Kinglets.

These little guys are only 4¼" long, and they're just about the only bird (other than a hummingbird) that's that small.  This part of Alabama is barely in their winter range.  The males' red crown isn't always visible, especially this time of year.  Those wing bars and eye ring are hard to see when they flit around so much.  And their olive color blends in with dead leaves really well, which also makes them hard to see.  With all those reasons, this is my best guess for what I've been seeing lately.

today's route
You can see it's nearly a straight shot from Opp to Montgomery, and many of the roads were nice and wide for a change.

The drive
Leaving Opp I passed the Lurleen Wallace Community College.  You may remember Lurleen was the wife of George Wallace, Alabama's notorious super-segregationist 4-time governor ("Segregation now.  Segregation tomorrow.  Segregation Forever.").  The interesting thing was that those terms weren't consecutive; the state constitution prohibited it.  George spent his first term trying to convince the legislature to change the rule, which they refused to do.  So he insisted his wife run in his place, and she stated explicitly that she was doing it so he could continue to be governor.

She died of cancer during her term, cancer that she'd had for years but didn't know about.  George did, though.  It was discovered when she had their 4th child by C-section, and (typical for the early '60s) the doctors told George who insisted that Lurleen not be told.  The result was years of her not receiving treatment that might have saved her life.  But George was interested only in his political career and didn't want to deal with an ailing wife and 4 kids at home.

My conclusion: Lurleen got a really raw deal and George was an even bigger jerk than I'd always thought him.

I passed a church with a sign out front that said, "Mary had a little lamb.  His name was Jesus."  Which somehow sounded creepy to me.

I've been seeing more Confederate Battle Flags since I've been in south Alabama than any place else I've traveled so far.

I passed through the town of Loverne - the Friendliest City in the South, they say.  They also claim to be the Home of the World's Largest Peanut Boil.  The local Shriners Club holds this peanut boil as a benefit each Labor Day weekend for the last 49 years.  They claim to boil and bag tons (actual tons) of peanuts each year.  For this year's account in the local paper, here's the link.   https://www.greenvilleadvocate.com

I passed the DongWon plant near the town of Sardis (which sounds like a restaurant).  Curious, I looked it up and learned DongWon generally is known for "high tenacity polyester woven textiles" (their words) but also make pipes for automobiles, which is what they make here.

I passed a field of cattle and noticed there were no Cattle Egrets.  The reason I noticed is that there was a vulture sitting in the field instead, just like the egrets do.  Odd.

I passed a decent-sized pond with a big sign saying, "Like to Fish?  Piddlin' is Perfect in Pirtle's Puddle."  Almost enough to make me wish I liked fishing.

In Montgomery I actually saw a license plate from Hawaii.  First one I've seen on this trip.  I've now seen them from every other state, including the reclusive North Dakotans and the rare Wyomingites (whose state ranks the least populous among the 50).

Campgrounds
There are 2 campgrounds near Montgomery, with a big difference in price.  But one of them is much closer to the city - in fact, it's in the city - so I decided to take one night there for sure while I checked out where the other place, a state park, was located.

So after I'd checked into The Woods RV Park (which is on one of the main roads of town and hasn't got a tree in the campground), I drove north of town looking for the state park.

Fort Toulouse/Fort Jackson National Historic Park includes remains of 3 different types of settlements on this ground.  The oldest is a mound from the Mississippian Culture, dating back to about 1100 AD.  Next is a reconstruction of Fort Toulouse, built by the French in the 1750s.  Last is a reconstruction of Fort Jackson, built by the troops of Gen. Andrew Jackson in 1814.  It was here that same year that the Creek Nation surrendered 20,000,000 acres of land to the US.

What's also here now is a small campground that charges only $18 for seniors, compared to the $32 I'm paying at the other place (the Good Sam price).  They also have an abundance of Spanish moss here, adding to the distinctly Southern atmosphere.


Despite this seeming to be a desirable place to stay, I decided it was just too far out of the main part of town to make for easy sightseeing.  It took me nearly half an hour to get to downtown, as opposed to about 10 minutes from the other place.  I decided to stay in the other campground until the weekend, and then move up here for a couple more nights.


Alabama - Day 17 - tires and Opp

Frank Jackson State Park, Opp
Tuesday, 17 December 2019

Tornadoes
Turns out there was a tornado in Alabama, but it hit in the far northwestern part, near Florence and Muscle Shoals where I visited earlier this month.  It killed 2 people and did extensive damage to Joe Wheeler State Park, which I passed several times.  So maybe I didn't need to run south, but I think caution is rarely wasted when it comes to tornadoes.

I've noticed that most campgrounds I've stayed in for the last 3 or 4 (or more) states have provided storm shelters, and made it clear to campers where they are.  What I've never known, and haven't bothered to ask, is whether pets would be allowed in those shelters.  The idea of stuffing Lily in her traveling bag and taking her and 2 large, bouncy, excited dogs into a small space with other people and their pets has been so mind-boggling that my thought processes stop there.  All I can do is hope I never need to use the service.  But it's seemed ominous to me that those shelters are provided at all.

Plans
Most KOAs, including the one last night, give guests a glossy brochure with a campground map, often a map of the town, and ads from local merchants.  I've used those ads before with good results so was happy to see one here for a local tire company.  I figured they could tell me if there was something or nothing wrong with my tires, and figure out a fix for any problems.

But my first question was where to go after that.  I still have 2 areas of the state I want to visit - the Gulf Coast and Montgomery - and my question was which I'd do this week before Christmas, and which would come after Christmas at the end of the month.  To postpone that decision until I'd figured out the tire problem, I picked a state park that's about an hour from here - and a lot cheaper.

But tires first.

today's route
Tires
Roy's Tires was fairly close to the campground and Roy himself came out to take a look at my tires.  He felt them and instantly said one of them had blown and the one next to it was close to blowing, and they opened up a space for me right away in their shop.

Once he'd taken a look at all the tires, he pointed out to me that the tread on all the rear tires was pretty shallow, especially compared with the front tires.  I remember going to a tire guy earlier this year; I can't remember the state, though I remember the business well.  I'm guessing the tire that blew yesterday was the one that the first tire guy had said was thin on the side (probably from me scraping it on that stupid Cape Cod bridge).  He'd rotated my tires and put the thin one on the inside so if it blew I'd be safe.  Which was what happened. 

But even though all the tires have about 45,000 miles on them, I wouldn't have expected the tread on the rear tires to be so worn down, especially compared with the front tires - and Roy said he wouldn't have thought so either.  I guess it has to be because the rear tires are carrying the weight from all my household goods and fixtures, but the tread difference was stark.

I decided tires are absolutely critical to my continued health and safety, let alone to my continued traveling, and told him to sell me 4 new ones.  Turned out that blown tire was nearly in pieces - the tread was separated from the sides about a quarter of the way around the tire. 

I watched the shopworker mount and balance the new ones and put them on the RV and thought he did a good job.  The bill came to $600.  That's $600 I wasn't expecting to spend, so it hurt - but not nearly as much as it would have hurt to be ignoring it when the 2nd tire blew on the same side.  Or to suddenly find myself with no traction on these narrow roads during the rain and winter. 

I'm very glad I stopped, and very glad I found a good tire place to go to.

On the road
As we drove down the road, Dexter had moved from the passenger seat to the dog beds between the seats where Gracie usually lies.  Gracie was sitting in the passenger seat for a bit and then decided to lie on the dog beds too.  She lay down right on top of Dexter.  All over him.

I noticed because her head was suddenly right by my elbow, when it's usually much lower.  But with both of them black I had to feel them to realize what she was doing.  They stayed like that for nearly half an hour, I think.  I wished I could take a photo.

We went through Enterprise - City of Progress, they say.

I saw oranges on trees, both in an orchard and in people's front yards.

I heard on the radio that, unlike the northern US, Alabama has 2 hurricane seasons: one in November-December and the main one March-May (when the rest of the US expects them).  But the weather guy being interviewed said these tornadoes this week were stronger and later than usual.  It is the 3rd week of December, after all, and they usually hit in November and early December.  He said all this with a strong Alabama accent which I thought was endearing being broadcast nationwide on NPR, not just on the local affiliate.

We passed sheep in several fields.

We had strong crosswinds most of the drive, which I found a little scary and very tiring to battle against.  And I was sure glad I'd bought those new tires to give me traction.

We passed a company named Birdsong Peanuts, and I was curious.  Dothan, about 30 miles south of Ozark where we stayed last night, bills itself as the Peanut Capital of the World, but we're a ways north of there.  I looked them up and concluded this location is just a gathering point for the peanuts harvested by local farmers.  The processing plants are located in west Texas, Virginia, and 3 in Georgia.  Birdsong is a 100-year-old company and here's a link if you want to see which states produce peanuts.   https://www.birdsongpeanuts.com

Opp
We got to the town of Opp which, after going through nearby Enterprise, I assumed was short for Opportunity, but it's not.  It's named for Henry Opp who was a lawyer for a railroad.  That's all Wikipedia says about it, though I assume the railroad came through Opp and was responsible for it being here at all.  Which still doesn't explain why the town would name itself after a lawyer.  I guess those were the days when the law was respected.

Coming into Opp I found once again that Google's instructions were very nearly useless.  Absolutely none of the streets I saw were labeled like Google said they would be.  Not one.  And so I got completely lost and had to use my trusty AAA map to get found again.  When I finally got into the center of town I found roads that were labeled as Google had said, but the signs were so old and rusty as to be nearly illegible.  I decided the folks of Opp knew where they were going and didn't need signs so didn't worry about outsiders needing them.

I stopped at the local IGA and then went on to the campground, which was only 2 miles out of town.  I got lucky and was able to pick up a wifi signal because we were so close to civilization. 


Saturday, December 21, 2019

Alabama - Day 16 - Tuskegee & Ozark

Ozark/Fort Rucker KOA, Ozark
Monday, 16 December 2019


today's route
I left by 9:00 heading toward the Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site, and from there to Greenville.  Oddly, almost nothing turned out as I'd expected.

The drive
Google's fixation of sending me by their idea of the fastest route, I've discovered, sends me down roads my RV shouldn't be on.  It did that today, but I chose a route that went on more main roads.

First, that took me through Auburn, and I saw more of the town than I'd seen before, including a Winn Dixie, which reminded me that I'm in the South again.

I went past several agricultural-related buildings for Auburn University, such as their Beef Cattle Evaluation Center.  I don't connect cattle with either Alabama or Auburn University, which shows how wrong I've been.  Heaven knows I've been passing enough fields with cows in them to have changed my mind before this.

Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site
Tuskegee, by the way, is pronounced with a hard g, not a soft one as you'd usually have when it's followed by e's like that.  Just think of our slang word "gee" and you'll see why it seemed odd to me.  But I was assured by several people that it's pronounced tus-KEE-gee, like in the name McGee.

I hadn't been able to find as much about this historic site online as I'd expected to do, seeing as it's part of the National Park Service, so I was unprepared for what I found.  Most NPS sites are extremely well organized, making it easy for visitors to figure out where to go to learn what they came to see.  This one was the opposite.  Very unorganized and no consideration given at all for disabled visitors.

Maybe what I saw is an example of the same lack of facilities and resources the airmen themselves faced during WWII.  Instead of the Visitor Center like I'm finding at all National Park Services facilities, the signs led me to a parking lot facing a wide hilltop with a few NPS signs scattered here and there.  From the hill, I got a good view of the airfield and the remaining buildings below, and signs that told me to take a long walk down a hill without telling me what I'd find at the bottom of it.

I think the version of a visitor center that's here is in one of the original hangars still at the airfield, but that's not clear at all from the signs.

Here's what I saw, beginning with what the airmen saw first.

scene at left, today
entrance gate in 1943








men training for war allowed
women to guard to gate




detail from above left





 From the hilltop above.

(the sign was dim and it was raining -
I did what I could with the picture) 

the remaining buildings today


detail from above sign

detail from lower right of above sign

Information about the airmen.

detail from sign at left



















detail from sign at right















detail from sign at left













For more information about their contributions to the war effort, as well as to the fight for desegregation, you can check this link.   https://en.wikipedia.org/Tuskegee-Airmen

Since I delayed my departure yesterday specifically so I could come here, I'm sorry to say I was very disappointed.  This site is not remotely set up for people with mobility problems.  Maybe it's okay with the Park Service that we drive down to the hangar where they say there are displays, and park somewhere around there, but there was absolutely no sign of it at all.  Nothing anywhere that said here's what to do if you use a walker or have a wheelchair or have old joints that don't want to walk half a mile down a hill (let alone back up again) to see whatever's inside that hangar.  And let's face it, many of the people who might be interested in visiting this site fall into one of those categories. 

Next time I'll drive down there and look for a place to park and wait for them to tell me not to.  Today I'd spent so much time walking around the enormous area with the widely spaced signs, I just didn't want to take more time to do that.  But I was disappointed.

After I'd walked the dogs around the area, I called the campground near Greenville where I'd hoped to stay tonight.  It's owned by the city, so I hadn't been able to reach anybody over the weekend.  This time I got a person who said, sure there are campsites available but they're expecting to have a tornado come through the area later today. 

Good heads-up.  I didn't really want to drive into a tornado zone.

I checked the weather online and saw just what he was talking about.  There was a huge weather system moving through Texas, then coming south in Louisiana, and across Mississippi before heading north in Alabama, with Greenville right in the way.  It looked like far south Alabama wouldn't get anything but rain, so I called the Ozark KOA where I'll be staying next week and asked for a space tonight, and then scooted on down.

The drive south
I decided to go by way of far eastern Alabama, along the Chattahoochee River, which forms part of the border between Alabama and Georgia.  Google didn't like it because it's such an incredibly inefficient route, but I insisted.

I passed through part of the Tuskegee National Forest and saw that they'd had a fire there.  It reminded me of the way Bastrop State Park looked after a bad fire a few years ago, except this fire here didn't look nearly as extensive.

I think there's a town or village near here called Little Texas.  I passed a sign that looked like it was announcing the city limits, except there weren't any houses or other buildings at all.  Nothing.  Just the sign.

I drove past huge cotton fields, also a turf farm.

I passed a very homemade sign saying Pigs 4 Sale.

I heard Terry Gross's interview on Fresh Air with Charlize Theron.  Part of it was her talking about growing up in South Africa under apartheid.  She said the farm where she grew up was completely integrated.  But when she went off to school, she saw in their textbooks that all the heroes were those of Afrikaners, with no mention of the heroes of the many other cultures in South Africa. 

I thought how much like our textbooks in the US that is - when I was growing up, I never knew African-Americans did anything at all toward building our country, let alone supplied heroes for us.  The more I learn about our history, the more clearly I'm seeing that what we had for much of my life (and long before) was apartheid, just as ugly and rigid a system as that in South Africa.

Historic Eufaula
Coming into Eufaula, the Big Bass Capital of the World, I saw that it is indeed a historic town, if for nothing other than its architecture.  I found this site online that shows good photos of the old houses in town.   https://blog.com/historic-homes-of-eufaula

I passed a small pond with a bird feeder on a pole in the middle of it, and on the feeder was sitting a Great Blue Heron.  A real one.

I passed very large Lake Eufaula, where one can find all those bass that the city's proud of.

Back on the road
All day I've been hearing a sound from my tires, I think, that's making me worried.  It started to sound like one of them is flat, but when I stopped by the side of the road to check, I couldn't see any problem.  But I couldn't check very closely because the shoulder was so narrow and there was a lot of traffic.  I have 4 tires on the rear axle, so it shouldn't be a dangerous situation, but I need to get it checked.

I passed a sign advertising Emu Oil.

I passed a house that seemed to have a fire coming from the side yard, and when I got near I saw a Volvo and a pickup parked next to each other in the yard, and they both seemed to be on fire.  But I didn't see anyone around, no fire trucks or people tending the fire or any indication anyone was worried besides me.  Weird.

I kept passing cotton fields.

I saw a mound of goats in a field.  Literally.  I guess it was a herd of goats that were climbing all over a mound of hay or something, but I couldn't see what they were standing on.  It just looked like a mound of goats.

I saw in the distance a very large helicopter that looked like this.

Chinook helicopter
It reminded me that Alabama has a very strong military presence statewide.

Coming into Ozark, I passed a building labeled Ozark City Schools Educational Support.  The odd thing was that the building was almost certainly a car dealership in a former life.  They had plenty of parking space around the building.  I thought this was a very sensible use of an unused building.