Tuesday, July 4, 2023

North Carolina - Day 6 - east to Mount Airy, Stone Mountain

Stone Mountain State Park, Roaring Gap
Tuesday, 4 July 2023

On our way out of the campground, I stopped to dump the trash and discovered that Dext had vomited on the floor beside the driver's seat.  I did my best to clean it up and used Clorox wipes that, to me, have a strong odor.  But as we were driving on the road, the vomit smell was still so strong it made me feel queasy.  Always something, isn't it?

today's route
The drive from Boone (last night's campground) to Stone Mountain (tonight's campground) was so short that I decided to seize this chance to visit Mount Airy, home of Andy Griffith and supposed model for Mayberry.

As you can see, we crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway, then eventually doubled back to it again for the night.  We went from near Tennessee (west) to near Virginia (north).

The route included a very steep hill with a sign saying "Truckers Warning: 8% Grade - 4½ Miles - Sharp Curves."  And it was all true.

I came to a pair of highway signs: one said "The Great State of Wilkes" and the other said "Welcome to Wilkes County."  The county paid for the "state" signs while DOT paid for the "county" signs - and that's all the information I could find online.  The county commissioners meeting where they discussed this didn't breathe a word about where the "great state" business came from.  Maybe it's the mountain air.

At the town of Wilkesboro - "Where the Mountains Begin" - gasoline costs $2.94, which is substantially less than the $3.17 I paid in Boone.  At North Wilkesboro, I passed the Benny Parsons Grandstand.  No sign about what the grandstand was for, but online I learned that Benny Parsons was a NASCAR legend, so I'm guessing this was a racetrack.

NPR played a bit of the 4 Tops singing "Reach Out (I'll Be There)" and I felt like I'd gotten whiplash.  I was suddenly almost dizzy with the speed of my brain being shoved back into the 1960s.  Strange feeling.  This was one of the songs that the Library of Congress has decided to preserve in the National Recording Registry.  They also selected some recordings of Dorothy Thompson's commentary on the events at the beginning of WWII.  I guess she came by her opinions honestly: she was the first American journalist expelled from Nazi Germany.  A profile of this remarkable woman is at this link.   http://www.theheroinecollective.com/dorothy-thompson

The highway provided lots of green trees and grass and blooming mimosas.  Very pretty.

I came to Yadkinville - "Gateway to the Yadkin Valley" - and found a gas station offering regular at $1.77/gallon.  No surprise, there was a long line waiting their turn.  Surprise, the gas station across the road was charging $3.23.

All over this area I kept seeing signs touting the Yadkin Valley.  It seems to be a very rural area with fewer than 40,000 residents in the very spread-out county.  But they also claim numerous wineries here, which sounds like a reasonable use of all that land.

I also saw all kinds of other crops, of which I recognized corn and maybe tobacco.

Another one of those gas stations (it was the Sheetz brand - I've seen them around here and there) with $1.77 gas was in Mount Airy with an even longer line waiting.

Mount Airy says it's "A Piedmont Triad Community."  I had to look that up and learned that the Piedmont Triad is a rough triangle that extends south from the Virginia border and includes the 3 cities of Greensboro, High Point and Winston-Salem, which are all south of Mount Airy.  As of 2012, the area's population was 1.6 million, though I'm sure it's larger now.

As I crossed Main Street, I could see the streets lined with folks obviously waiting for a July 4th parade.  And to tell the truth, until then I'd completely forgotten that's what day it was today.  So Happy Birthday! to our country.

Dext and I walked around Riverside Park and the Granite City Greenway, but we couldn't really do it justice.  It just felt too hot - we were there about noon - and we didn't want to be out too long.

I saw a Virginia license plate there that said DGMOMMY

I'd learned from Google's town map that there were several Mayberry sights to see, so I mapped out a little route to take a look.

Mayberry Courthouse and Jail
It actually says so on the building.  And the signs say Mayberry Hotel and Foley's Market and Emmett's Fixxit Shop and Fred's Radio and TV Repair.  I think this is a stop on the usual tour which, of course, they're not having on the 4th of July.

Andy's Homeplace
This house was apparently actually Andy Griffith's home from 1935 till 1966.  That police car pulled up just as I got there, sat there while I took this photo, and then drove away.  Part of the entertainment, I guess.  The sign on the right says the house is occupied and will people please respect their privacy.

Driving through town I also saw the Andy Griffith Playhouse and Bee's B&B.  Mount Airy is a very hilly town, which I guess makes sense since it sits in the Piedmonts.

The state park was about 20 miles west of town, and we were in our site by 3:45.

I'd talked with Anna and David while we were at that park, and told them I was worried about Dext's frequent vomiting.  They urged me to feed him plain boiled chicken and plain cooked rice - no oil or spices on either one.  So I stopped at a grocery store back in town to buy these items and, before taking Dext on a walk or doing anything else I cooked the chicken and rice.  I figured they'd need some time to cool before I fed supper to the critters.  That usually happens about 4:15, but tonight it got delayed.

I put the chicken on and started the water boiling for the rice, measured out the rice and set the cup down on the table to read the directions.  Jimmy decided the measuring cup was a new toy and pawed it.  I stopped him, read some more, saw him reach out his paw again and swatted for him, and either he or I knocked that measuring cup over.  That put at least ¼ cup of rice scattered everywhere: on all 3 dog beds stacked under the table, stuck in my flip flops, stuck into the cushions on the seat, and the kernels slithered down through the cracks all the way to the water pump under the plywood cover that's under the bench seat.

Both the chicken and the rice were cooked by the time I shook out the beds and pulled up the cushions and the sheet of plywood and swept the inside of the water pump compartment and so forth.  By then, of course, Jimmy had forgotten all about it and I was furious.  We have really different attention spans - his is nonexistent.  I guess I chalk this one up to the full moon too.  I saw it when we went out on our first walk this morning, by the way - a big full moon.  Quite lovely and showing no sign of the havoc that it wreaks on our lives.

Dext and I went out for a walk, but it was very warm and Dext was panting soon after we went out.  I was tired from the heat and the driving and the tension so we cut our walk short.

I hope that chicken and rice helps him.

Monday, July 3, 2023

North Carolina - Day 5 - in Boone campground

Boone KOA, Boone
Monday, 3 July 2023

After we settled in yesterday afternoon, I took Dexter to the dog park - a small fenced-in area behind the dumpsters.  But another dog came and was friendly with Dext and I talked a bit with the owner.  Then a man brought another dog but wouldn't let it come in to meet Dext and the 2nd dog.  I could see his dog wanted to meet them, and said so, but the man refused.  And instead of joining us or going for a walk, which are the choices all other dog owners make, this guy plunked down on a nearby seat with his dog and just waited.

After a bit, the 2nd dog's owner decided to let them have the dog park.  Of course, being stubborn plus seeing that man as being passive-aggressive in a major way, I didn't want to leave, but without dog #2 Dext lost interest, so we went back to the RV.  The man then let his dog into the dog park - and I could see from our campsite that they were there for only a few minutes before leaving, which really peeved me.  Standard passive-aggressive attitude: I'd rather ruin your fun with a totally unreasonable position than join in and make everyone happy.  Oh well.  But I sure felt sorry for that man's poor dog.

Later that evening we got sudden wind, sudden rain and lots of thunder.  So much thunder that it scared all the critters and Dext wouldn't go to his bed.  So I pulled a bed for him up by the bathroom near mine.  I don't know how long he stayed there - he was back in his usual place by morning - but he'd vomited a little, presumably from being upset.  Poor guy.

Today, Monday, was the official full moon, and the kittens - especially Jimmy - were going nuts.  So of course I was going nuts too.  Bouncing off the walls (really) and leaping from one level of furniture to another at high speed.  Ignoring any living being they might be landing on or using for a launch pad.

And the wifi here was really spotty.  My computer could pick up 3 signals labeled KOA Guest, and each of them would kick me off after a few minutes and then say I can't connect or say I'm connected but there's no internet.  It was just hit or miss (mostly miss) all day long.

It was so unreliable that I finally started writing on the word processing program.  I did drafts of posts for June 1st to Murphy and for June 12th when I went to Asheville and for the month of June that I spent in the Murphy campground.  It ended up being productive, but nobody could see the results because I couldn't post.

All day the weather looked ominous and the forecast said strong winds likely, possible hail, rain, thunder - so I hooked everything up to the indoor surge protector for double protection.  And of course by 5:30 we had bright sunshine.  The only bad weather was when I took Dext back to the dog park and we got caught in some heavy rain.  So much for the forecast.

This campground is unusually hilly - even more than others I've stayed in that I thought were hilly.  Here, each parallel row of campsites is laid out to run down the hill and some are much steeper than others.  One was so precipitous that I'd guess at least a 6% slope to it - and all the RVs in that row (including some big Class As) have to drive down that slope to get out of their campsites.  Our row was sloped but to a much more manageable degree than those others.

A fenced-in field near some campsites occasionally had goats in it.  Or maybe they were always there but spent their time in a different area.  The campground office sold little cups of feed, and I saw several small children take those cups over to the fence, and all the goats and goat kids came rushing over to get fed.  They were all cute - the children and the young goats.

I saw 2 small white dogs that looked like they were the same breed - maybe Maltese? - they met while they were both out on walks.  The first dog was quivering with excitement and trying hard to sniff the other, but dog #2 was cautious and backed up against mom's legs - and then when dog #1 walked away, dog #2 tried to run after it.  I had time to watch this little play because Dext was busy sniffing something nearby.

I cooked a whole chicken in the slow cooker and, with the draft posts and Dexter's various walks, felt like I'd gotten something accomplished today.


Sunday, July 2, 2023

North Carolina - Day 4 - east and north to Boone

Boone KOA, Boone
Sunday, 2 July 2023

today's route
According to Google, Asheville would be less than halfway on today's drive, and I already knew that part would take a couple of hours, so we left Murphy at 8:00.

Just past Andrews, I came to a turn labeled for the Granny Squirrel Covered Bridge.  Apparently this area is known locally as Granny Squirrel, named for the stream running through it.  Legend has it the name came from a Cherokee woman named Squirrel and, as she got older, her name was attached to the area where she lived.

I had a heck of a time finding anything about that covered bridge online and still know nothing about it except what it looks like.  All of the photos are copyrighted, but this website has a nice photo.   https://pixels.com/granny-squirrel-bridge

I passed 2 labeled slide areas.

And I passed the turn for the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  Later I found the highway I was on was designated the Great Smoky Mountains Expressway, also the Appalachian Highway.

This road to Asheville is, surprisingly, the recommended route for truckers, and I saw plenty of them even on Sunday.  This is the road with so many curves and hills and no shoulders.  We went down a 9% grade for 2 miles to the Nantahala River and Gorge, and through the Nantahala National Forest.  Followed by 3 7% grade downhills.  And later by 2 6% grades.

I'd hoped for lighter traffic because of it being a Sunday but forgot all the rafting companies and other water sports promoted in this area.  I saw lots of vehicles carrying kayaks.  A sunny Sunday meant lots of folks coming out to enjoy themselves.  When I got glimpses of the river I thought it looked like melted milk chocolate. 

The mimosas are blooming and looking beautiful.  Speaking of which, North Carolina seems to plant masses of day lilies all over their highways.  Maybe some are natural, but the concentrations I see at highway entrances can't be coincidences.

At Asheville, we stopped at the French Broad River dog park we've been to before.  Today it was downright crowded.  I talked to a young woman who said she'd moved here from Dubai.  She said in the summer it was too hot there for dogs to walk on pavement, and she and her husband sent their dog to day care on a dog bus to a big warehouse with air conditioning.  She said her dog loved it and jumped right into the bus and knew where his assigned seat was.  She said cactus doesn't grow there but they had palm trees instead.  And camels.  And her dog used to chase the gazelles when they'd come around.  It certainly sounds like a different world.

Leaving town on an interstate, I realized this is one of the only times I couldn't tell I was on an interstate.  It was a beautiful drive - not only lots of green trees but also the mountains seemed to be green.  (Yes, I know they're the Blue Ridge Mountains.)  Actually, we were driving through the Pisgah National Forest.

One section of the road included an extremely steep hill that went on for several miles.  Truckers were told to exit the highway for driving instructions before tackling the hill, and the drive included several runaway truck ramps.

We went through the small town of Old Fort, which seemed to be a nice old town.  It says it's the Home of the North Carolina Gold Festival in early June.  They say that before gold was discovered in California, North Carolina was the nation's leading gold producer.  

For some reason, the town displays an arrowhead that's at least 5' tall and mounted on a pedestal that's another 3' or so.  As I was leaving town I saw a very large plant for a company named Auria, which turned out to be "a leading global supplier of automotive acoustics and fiber-based systems."  I guess that's the primary employer for the town.

We passed the small town of Pleasant Gardens (no highway sign but I saw the name on businesses and churches).  

And coming into the much larger town of Marion - elevation 1,400', they say - I passed a building labeled the Historic Carson House, c. 1793.  After so much traveling, I of course assumed it referred to Kit Carson - forgetting I'd left him behind back west.  This Carson was a colonel and, in the Revolutionary War, fought at the historic Battle of King's Mountain in South Carolina.  This house was used as a stagecoach stop for years, where folks like Daniel Boone, Sam Houston and Andrew Jackson passed through.  The house is now a museum.

All along the drive today I passed churches in every town, all of them well attended, judging from their parking lots.

At one point, 2 bikers passed me.  Both of them were wearing full protective clothing and both had a pair of "saddlebags" - those metal containers attached to either side over the rear wheel.  And one of the bikers had a case of Bud strapped behind him.  First time I've seen that.

As I drove north I came to multiple places with the name Linville: Linville Mountain, Linville Caverns, Linville Falls, Linville Gorge.  Linville River was named after an in-law of Daniel Boone, and I suppose these other features were named for the river.  The caverns are privately owned, open to the public (for a fee) and are the only "show caverns" in North Carolina, per Wikipedia.  The parking lot there was packed when I drove by.

Eventually I came to the town of Boone (named for Daniel, of course).  Boone has a population of more than 19,000 and calls itself the Heart of the High Country.  The elevation here is 3,333' (2,000' higher than at Marion earlier), so Boone claims the highest elevation of any town larger than 10,000 folks east of the Mississippi River.

The campground was about 4 miles from town, and we were in our campsite by just after 2:00.  A long day of driving, thanks to all the mountains we drove through, so I was glad to be able to stop for a couple of days.


Saturday, July 1, 2023

North Carolina - "Day" 3 - in and around Murphy

Murphy KOA, Murphy
Tuesday, 2 June through Saturday, 1 July 2023

Before I came here, I'd made reservations only for 5 days.  But once here, I realized I was really tired - from the driving, and the heat (it got up to around 80° on the drive here, which I know is nothing compared to the baking southwest US but it was warm for here), and from just being tired.  At the campground office they said they didn't give a discount for being here a month, only a free day for every week I stayed.  So I extended my reservation for 3 weeks to give me time to get my energy back.

Weather
While we were here, the weather fluctuated to a surprising degree.  Well, it was surprising to me because I expect fairly constant summer weather in the month of June.  But that's not what we got.

Instead we had periods - days, even - of heavy rain and thunder.  Followed, sometimes within an hour, by sun - sometimes very warm sun.  We'd have quite chilly mornings when all 5 of us wanted the heater on, then days with temps in the low 80s.

One night we had a bad storm start about 10:30 PM, and it went on for hours.  Heavy rain, thunder, lightning.  I counted from flash to sound and found most of the lightning was about 8 miles away, but one bolt was only 2 miles.  

That night Dext was a mess from fear.  I gave him the CBD treats, but their active ingredient expired 6 months ago, so I doubt if they actually do anything for him.  Still, he knows he gets them when it thunders and he asks for them, so I hope for at least a placebo effect.  But that night he refused to go back to his own bed to sleep and kept trembling back by the bathroom door next to my bed, so I finally dragged one of the dog beds back there to give him a more comfortable place to be.  When I got up the next morning, he was sleeping there.  I do wish he'd learn from experience that we're always still in one piece after those bouts of thunder so there's nothing to be afraid of, but I guess the fear is overriding the message.

Twice in the early mornings, Dext refused to go out for the 4 AM walk because it was raining.  Labs are supposed to be great with water - enjoy swimming and so forth.  But not Dexter.  He hates the rain and never even tries to stick a toe in any body of water.  He likes to drink it (and he likes snow), and that's his sole relationship with water.  On these mornings I waited till 6:00 and the rain had abated to get him outside.  It's not that I'm dying to wander in the rain, but it's just that he doesn't have the access to indoor bathrooms that the rest of us do.

One afternoon at 3:00 I realized it was so dark in the RV that I needed to turn on the lights.  I was just thinking of taking Dext out when it started raining.  We tried to go out anyway and got caught in some very high wind and strong rain, so we hot-footed it back to the RV.  The rain stopped at 3:45 so we went out real fast, but later we got more strong rain and thunder/lightning.  It scared Dext to trembling again.  Poor little guy.  And when we got the rain, we also got a sudden drop in temperature.

One morning we took our first walk at 3:30 and both of us were apprehensive: Dext about thunder and me about lightning.  While we were out the wind increased from a breeze to a very strong blow.  We did our usual route and made it back to the RV about 2 minutes before the rain came.  Pelting rain.

I started noticing that many mornings we'd have a heavy fog down in our valley.  It would show up about 6:30 and stay until around 8:00.  Sunrise was officially before 6:30 but the sun didn't hit this valley until after 7:30.

One morning the weather forecast said possibly damaging weather not only from rain, thunder and lightning, but also from dangerously high winds and hail.  That seemed odd because the previous day we'd been promised no rain for the next 2 days.  Couldn't they see this coming?  And sure enough, by 9:30 AM we started getting rain and thunder, which continued for the next 5 hours.  Then the sky cleared, the sun came out and the air was nicely warm.

That day Dext wanted the heat turned up - and up and up.  It got up to 90° before he was satisfied.  But he was feeling punk anyway, and he wasn't the only one who thought it was getting chilly.

With so much rain in a short period, the ground got very soggy - too much liquid for the soil to absorb it all.  The roads in this campground seem to be made of dirt with a bunch of gravel thrown on top, except that over time the gravel's gotten buried down in the dirt so much the roads are reverting to their original component.  It can make for some surfaces so muddy my shoes seem to be sucked in.  But although that's an accurate description, it sounds much worse than it is, especially compared with other campgrounds I've stayed in.

One time the power went out; my main surge protector (plugged in at the outdoor power source) has an automatic 120-second wait period before it cycles back on.  When the weather - wind or lightning - starts to pick up I also plug everything into a power strip with an automatic shut-off in a surge, so I feel doubly protected.  But I find that main surge protector very reassuring.  And I find being in the RV in a storm feels very secure and cozy.  Sadly, Dext doesn't feel that way and gets really nervous, even with the CBD treats.  I doubt if they actually do anything for him, other than being part of a ritual.  And rituals can be very comforting - most religions are built on rituals, after all. 

What I got done
When I first came here, one of the reasons I wanted more time to rest is that I still hadn't even finished my posts for Georgia, let alone those for the entire month in South Carolina.  The whole time I was traveling in SC, I was feeling confused, somewhat disoriented, because my mind was still on what I'd seen in Georgia which made it hard to see what was in front of me in South Carolina.  So I was getting confused between Charleston and Savannah (which actually have a lot in common) and Atlanta and Columbia (ditto), not to mention the smaller towns.

I didn't want to add to that confusion by trying to see North Carolina while writing about South Carolina.  The wifi here at the campground was fairly decent most of the time, so I managed to get a lot of writing done.  Bit by bit, I finished Georgia and then, on the last day of this month, I finished all of South Carolina too.  That's reassuring that I can drive in North Carolina and see it as itself, and not in comparison to something else.

While I was writing the post for Columbia (SC), suddenly something in the computer went whacko.  The McAfee Vault icon showed up and took up quite a bit of the working space I needed on the screen.  I've never put anything in the vault, didn't even know it existed, and have no idea at all why it popped up or how to make it go away.

I remembered my amazing computer teacher Janice showing me there were online sites that would help with problems, so I started looking.  And I found an online chat that was no longer active but still had information about this.  It said McAfee was "incredibly hard to remove" from a computer's files but told me how to try.  I did what it said, the vault stuff disappeared, and what also disappeared were all the incredibly annoying reminders that my McAfee coverage had expired and I needed to renew it.  I didn't want to renew it but those pop-ups never took "go away" for an answer.  And now they're gone.  Like magic.  So though it took a lot of time out of my day, it all turned out to be a really good thing.  I guess that's the silver lining in every cloud they talk about.

Besides doing the blog posts, I figured out what I wanted to see next month when I travel North Carolina and then tried to cobble together places to stay.  And that got really really hard.  Surprisingly hard.  Okay, I get it that campgrounds on the ocean will be at a premium and so will their prices.  But I had trouble all over the state, both in private campgrounds and in state ones.  Many campgrounds were priced way out of sight.  The cheapest campsites I found at some KOAs were $72, $76, $83 and notably the KOA at Cape Hatteras/Outer Banks was asking $145 as their cheapest site.  To add to the problem, NC doesn't have many state campgrounds that are equipped for RVs - only 9 to be exact.  Not enough for a sizeable state like NC.  Plus I was hampered by the 4th of July holiday, a time when half of America wants to go camping (at least, that's the way it seems).  With all that, I had to jettison visits to several places I'd hoped to see, but eventually I got reservations done for the month.

After that little dose of reality, I spent some time thinking about my plan to go from NC to the Washington, DC, area.  Actually, I did more than think - I checked prices and availability in campgrounds near the capital in both Maryland and Virginia.  What I learned is that though there are still some sites available, I can't afford them.  On the other hand, the prices plummet in October and November.  They go down to about half.  (Vacation tip for anyone interested in seeing the nation's capital: don't go when every family and schoolkid in the country is going.)

I was anyway planning to spend some time filling in some of the gaps in my blog - there are still a few posts from several years ago I haven't finished - some even dating back to 2019.  And I want to finish those.  Following that, I wanted to review my whole blog, my whole trip.  I wanted to try to get a view of the Lower 48 as a whole.

I'm truly sorry I couldn't make it up to Alaska, and I expect the state has seen so many changes in the 20+ years since I was last there that I can't say I still know it well.  And I may be one of the few Alaskans who never made it to Hawaii: the 50th state was the primary vacation spot for those in the 49th state.  So it's an entire part of the Union that I've never even seen, and I can't help but wonder how much my view of the country would change if I had.  But I still haven't figured out a way to get my RV to the Islands - even to one island, let alone all of them - so that visit will have to wait.

So with wanting to complete the gaps in the blog, and with wanting to review all my posts, which I expect could take quite a bit of time, and with not being able to afford the in-season campground prices near DC, I decided to postpone that visit till later in the year.  In the interim, I figured I'd go where the campground prices were bound to be lower because nobody else would want to go there - i.e. the extremely hot southern states. 

I made reservations for the first part of that trip where I'll stop to see my cousin near Jacksonville, FL, before leaving the east coast, then head over to Mount Pleasant, TX, where I've stayed several times.  It's hot there, and the campground prices are about $30/night because of it, but east Texas is often cooler than the rest of the state, so I'm hoping to escape at least some of the misery.  The folks there are very pleasant and helpful, the wifi is pretty decent, the campground is comfortable, and it's hard to beat the price.  And I'll play it by ear from there.

But all of that reservation making took a whole lot more time and effort than I'd have expected.  Still, I've got places to stay and things to see in NC guaranteed, and that's reassuring.

I spent all of one day getting the driving directions to campgrounds and sights-to-see for nearly the first 2 weeks after I leave here.  I'll go first up to Boone, which advertises itself as being at nearly 4,000' altitude in the mountains, so I figured wifi up there might be iffy.  Then from there I'll be spending the following week between 2 state parks, and I didn't want to count on being able to get an internet signal at either of those.  It took, as I said, a full day to figure out what I wanted to see at the various points along the way, and to add in visits to grocery stores and recycling drop-off centers and so forth, and then to argue with Google about appropriate routes, and then to write them all down.  But that's done now too.

Animal life
Birds
During this month, I several times saw a Bluebird - always when Dext and I were hanging around the dog park.  Usually we'd both be sitting (me) or lying (Dext) in the sun and a Bluebird would fly across the dog park and perch on a fence pole for a while.  Always a welcome sight.  I think there's a pair here.

I saw several Cardinals from time to time.  But the most common bird was the Song Sparrow.

Song Sparrow
Of course, I had to look it up and, to me, a whole lot of sparrow species look a whole lot alike.  But I'm fairly sure about this one because the bird book described their song exactly like what I heard, and it also said they could be fairly small (4¾") which these were, and that it would have red on its crown that might show as stripes.  This photo doesn't quite look like what I saw, but none of the others that occur in western NC look like this.

Once, also while we were at the dog park, I saw a Cooper's Hawk fly overheard.  Of course it was too fast for me to get an identifying look . . .
Cooper's Hawk
. . . but I'm guessing the species based on its call and the length of its tail (longer than other hawks).  They prey on small songbirds and are in this area year-round.  So that's my guess.

One day when Dext and I were out (not going to the dog park) a woodpecker flew only about 8' in front of me and landed on the trunk of a tree about 20' away.  My guess here is a Red-headed Woodpecker . . .
Red-headed Woodpecker
. . . based on it being common in this area, having a lot of red on its head, white on its wings, and a black back (not a ladder-back like other woodpeckers with those same characteristics).  The process of elimination is frustrating for me but better than not having any idea at all.

And on a walk during the morning one day I saw a hummingbird stop to drink out of some flowers on a Hosta near the office.  I hadn't realized before that those trumpet-like flowers were a perfect shape for a long bill to poke into for nectar.  The day was overcast which made things seem darker than if they'd been in the sun, but with that caveat, what I thought I saw was a bird that was overall shades of green.  The bird book says I'm wrong, even for a female.  It says the only hummingbird on the entire east coast of the US is the Ruby-throated Hummingbird.


female Ruby-throated Hummingbird
 
male Ruby-throat
















It couldn't have been a male because there's no way I'd have missed all that red they've got on them, so it had to be a female or juvenile.  They've got white and buffy underparts with plain green topsides.  I wouldn't have thought that's what I saw, but the bird book insists all the other US hummingbirds aren't any closer than central Texas.  Which is a ways west of here.  So Ruby-throat it is.

Mammals
This campground is bordered by the Valley River, with houses, crops and cows on the other bank.  Almost every day, Dext and I saw 4 or 5 or 6 cows standing in the shade - in the river up to their knees.  I never figured out what they were dong there.  And I couldn't tell whether their numbers varied or whether I just couldn't get a good look at them across the river in the gloom of the shade.  The level of the river fluctuated with the amount of rain we got, and one day when the level was considerably higher than usual we walked by that way and saw no cows there at all.  Water was too high for them, I guess.  I had wondered how those cows got down to the river and wondered if they could get back up the riverbank, which looked very muddy and quite steep.  Well, one day we passed by and saw the cows, in a line one by one, walking up that steep riverbank.  I couldn't believe my eyes, because I know both Dext and I would have had a really hard time getting up it, but the cows seemed to be having no trouble with the climb.  I wished I could take a photo but kept forgetting to take my camera with me on walks.

Many days I saw (usually Dext didn't) one, sometimes 2, critters that I guess must have been marmots.  My first guess had been muskrat because each time it caught sight of us it disappeared over the riverbank.  It seemed to be living right by the river.  But I met another camper who mentioned having seen a pair of marmots in that area and that they had a nest there.  Still, the internet said muskrats depend on living by water bodies, especially rivers, where marmots where definitely land animals and always lived in upland areas (upland from water bodies).  But then I found these online photos.

marmot

muskrat










The muskrat is no question much smaller than the critters I saw, while the marmot is just about the right size.  So marmot it is.

Also, several rabbits seemed to be living in the upland area where I'd have expected the marmots.  Dext and I would see them on walks, usually when they were running across the road to get away from us.  Several times we'd see them crouched down in the grass pretending to be statues, and I'd watch Dext stare at them for a while to see if they moved, because he's learned that's the difference between a statue and a live critter.

Miscellaneous
And for a different kind of critter, a fly got into the RV and the kittens failed to catch it for 2 days.  I finally got tired of the fly failing to figure out how to go out the door when I opened it and swatted it with a flyswatter.  I explained to the kittens that it was their job, but they ignored me as usual.

And twice I found a tick on my head.  On the top of my skull.  Really creepy feeling to find them, because it becomes impossible not to imagine having them everywhere on my body.  Every itch, every bump I can't see presents the specter of another tick.  I heard from several people that this is a very bad year for ticks, so always something to look forward to (i.e. Fall, when the risk level might go down).

On another walk, I suddenly noticed that a stick near Dexter moved . . . and turned out to be a snake.  There was another couple and their dog nearby (Dext was focused on the dog), but the couple both reacted when I said "snake."  She was nervous and he was interested, came over to look and said it was a Black Racer and not likely to hurt us.  I wondered if this one was the same as those Black Rat Snakes at a South Carolina state park, but it wasn't.  Per the internet, a Black Racer has shiny skin and a Black Rat Snake has dull ridged skin.  So this was a Black Racer. 

Dexter
The last few days we were here, Dext started having digestive problems.  On the 29th he vomited both his breakfast and his lunch.  Then about 15 minutes after I'd gone to bed I head him vomit his supper.  Luckily I was still awake and really relieved he did it on the floor and not on one of this beds.  But that meant no food stayed down all day.  

The next morning he vomited his breakfast on a towel in the passenger seat so not as easy a cleanup but still much easier than for a dog bed.  That day I thought he'd kept down his lunch and supper, but the following day I found where he'd vomited a lot beside the passenger seat - it was all over the floor beside the door.  He started showing me he was tired, not wanting long walks but instead taking the short route back to the RV.  He enjoyed lying in the sun in the dog park but wanted to go straight back home after that.

Of course I thought at first he'd just eaten something bad, but that always shows up in his stools (very soft) and he rarely vomits.  But with whatever this was, his stools were fine and he was vomiting up almost all his food.

I usually feed him Purina ProPlan dry food but I can only find that in pet stores.  When I last ran out of it, I was in a pet-store-desert and instead got Purina One in the grocery store.  So on the off-chance this had something to do with his food, I looked for a pet store in Murphy.  Did I mention this is a small town?  Only one pet store (combined with a business creating water gardens) and they didn't carry anything as lowbrow as Purina.  So I got a brand called Natural Balance that claimed to have only a few ingredients and those were fresh (they said), including chicken and sweet potatoes.

He threw most of that up too.  Gradually he seemed to be keeping some of his food down, but it was worrying, especially seeing him lose energy.

Kittens
In early July they'll be 10 months old, which is still definitely kitten territory.  And it shows in their faces that they aren't adult cats.  I feel completely confident that, if I let them stay out overnight, they wouldn't be able to sleep through the night even though they can do that now with no trouble.  Dexter and Lily and I are all senior citizens and need our sleep, so I'm not yet willing to let the kittens spread mayhem all night long.

Jimmy is still biting me and I don't know how to stop him.  Bucky does it too now and then, but with Jimmy it's a regular thing.  I couldn't even find much help online.  One person said her husband blew in the cat's face when it was in biting mode and that seemed to work, so I tried it a couple of times but without much luck.  I'm not always in a position to do that, since my hands are attached a long way from my face.

Trips to town/s
I made 4 trips to Murphy and 2 trips to Andrews during this month.  

Trips to Murphy
Usually these trips were just to get groceries and stir up my waste tanks so I could dump them more thoroughly.  But the first time we went to Murphy, I discovered the Murphy River Walk, and Dext and I went there each time we went to town.
sign I found at the walk -
enlargements below

The walk covers a good share of the town of Murphy.













The town is proud of the trail and it's heavily used.  It's a 4-mile trail, some of which is paved but most of which is gravel, though we found a section that was dirt - and pretty muddy from recent rain.  The trail follows both the Valley River and the Hiawassee River after they join.  The town promotes its canoe trails as well as walking trails.

Dext and I went on different portions of the trail, though one section ended up being off-limits for us because it was used by a resident flock of Canada Geese which left their droppings, which Dext thinks are candy.  Yuck.  In that area there's a nice veterans' memorial.

But a sample of the walk looks like these:



















The walk also includes an audio tour, if you have a smart phone, which of course I don't.  Apparently you can learn about the local history and legends that way.

I guess it was the 2nd time we walked along the paved part of the trail that I noticed a rock beside the trail that had been painted green and had googly eyes.  When I stopped to look, I realized it also had something red coming out of one side - red and forked.  And then (finally) I realized I was looking at a snake.  Someone had found a good-sized rock with a sort of ridge in one part of it which, with the green paint and eyes, became the snake's nose.  The snake had to have a tongue, of course.  And behind the head rock was a string of other rocks, some painted and some not, ending in a little string of small rocks like a rattlesnake trail.  It was really clever and I wished I had my camera with me as I'd missed seeing the snake on the walk when I had it.  Very creative.

One day, driving into Murphy, I was passed by a silver Corvette with a license plate that said "QWIKSLVR."  Clever.

One trip I stopped at the local Walmart because I was desperate.  My computer mouse had stopped working, I find it hard to function without it, and in this small town electronics stores aren't standard.  Even the Walmart had only one mouse that connected to the computer by a wire; all the others were wireless and I didn't want that.  But even one choice was better than none.

At a store in town I saw this sign: "How did Sam win the talent show?  Sam sung."

On one trip I went to a liquor store - apparently the only one in town.  It was called Murphy ABC Store.  And I learned that in North Carolina, the stores that sell hard liquor (stronger than beer and wine) are owned by the state, so competition wasn't a big deal in a town this size.  And oddly in NC, liquor stores don't sell beer and wine.

Next door to the ABC store was a gas station selling regular for $3.19.  That was much cheaper than it had been a week or so before, so I bought it, learning later that several stations just down the road were charging $3.10.  Gas prices seem to be coming down, which I think is great.  Though I'm surprised the Republicans aren't claiming Pres. Biden is artificially lowering them now (as opposed to when he was making them so high a year or two ago) to distract us from the treasonous allegations against him.  But maybe they're still so busy trying to find proof of those allegations they're afraid to try to capitalize on them.

At the pump next to mine, gas suddenly started running out of the woman's tank and down her car - the automatic shutoff didn't work.  What a mess and the smell was terrible.  I suggested she go tell the folks inside - and I think they might have given her a bit of a refund.  After she left one of the staff came out with a big pail of kitty litter and scattered it all over the area, which helped the smell.  I just got worried about static electricity maybe setting off all that vapor, so I moved very carefully.

As I was leaving, I saw a billboard nearby for Cherokee Guns, which I'm assuming is a local gun store.  The sign said "Pray for Peace/ But Be Prepared" with a picture of an assault rifle between the 2 lines.  It must be exhausting to be living in constant fear of impending violence, as some people seem to be doing.

Trips to Andrews
route map to Andrews
Along the road to Andrews, I discovered a place to drop off at least some of my recycling.  They accepted only glass, plastic bottles, aluminum and cardboard.  So I still had all the mixed paper and other plastics, but at least I got rid of some stuff.

There are several veterinarians in Murphy, and all of them seem to be so busy they barely wanted to talk to me about clipping the kittens' claws.  But in Andrews, a town about 10 miles away, I found a very pleasant vet's office that was willing to work us into their schedule.  I went there twice, once early in the month and again near the end.  The kittens seem to grow their claws faster than any other cat I've had and need them clipped every 3 weeks - or I get shredded and punctured.  On both visits they got weighed.  The second time they each weighed 8.4 pounds, which is as much as many full-grown cats.  (Note that Jimmy's completely caught up with Bucky on the weight.)  

And I'm pretty sure they're not done growing.  When I put them in their carrying case each night at bedtime, they're really starting to look squashed in there.  I keep thinking it's getting almost cruel to keep them like that for 7 or 8 hours each night.  But it's all they've ever known, sleeping together, and so far they don't seem to mind it.  Every 3rd night or so I heard some squealing and squirming, but they always settle down really fast so I guess it's not a problem.

Both times we went to Andrews, I stopped at an official highway rest area so Dext could have someplace different to walk in.  It was very pleasant, on the banks of maybe the Valley River, with huge flowerbeds full of wildly blooming daylilies in many colors.  It was quite a display and many folks were taking photos of it.  I tried but they didn't begin to show how spectacular this sight was so I'm not including them.

They also had several signs about the Trail of Tears that apparently came through very near here.

parts enlarged below



parts enlarged below






Cherokee history in this area


parts enlarged below




Life in the campground
A few days after I got here, quite a few people came in who all seemed to know each other.  That weekend the whole campground was full - every space and cabin taken - and I heard this was a family reunion.  Naturally I expected they'd stay the weekend and then leave, but they didn't.  Most of them kept staying and staying - and I finally asked one of them about their group.  He said it was the Craig family, that they meet every 2 years, and this year they had 44 people here.  They had 17 RVs and all the cabins and several of the tents.  I noticed that even 4 picnic tables pushed together weren't enough to seat everyone.  It was a loud group, though mostly just because it was a lot of people, not because they were particularly rowdy.  They included all ages from people older than me down to young children, so it wasn't like they were all retired and had extra time.  Most of them were there for more than a week and I guess it was a vacation time for lots of them.  A shame that it rained for a good part of the time, but these folks just seemed to move under awnings and inside RVs.  Each evening they all gathered in the campground's outdoor but covered eating area.  A really chummy group.  Once these folks finally left, the campground really cleared out.

I was surprised at the number of campers who wanted campfires - several nights it seemed like most of the people here had one going.  I saw them even in the daytime and even when the temp was well into the 70s and people were wearing tank tops and shorts.  It was really smoky around here when they wanted campfires in the rain, which was surprisingly often.

As my asthma has gotten worse, I've learned one coping skill is to avoid campfires.  Both the smoke and the particulates are tough on my lungs, I guess.  So I spent much of this time with the RV's windows closed and the fan or the AC turned on.  I'd rather have enjoyed the fresh forested air, but I also prefer to be able to breathe, so it wasn't really a choice.

I take 2 types of pills to deal with my blood pressure.  One night I knocked one of the bottles of pills off the table and, of the original 90 in the prescription, I had 51 left (I counted the ones in the non-knocked-off bottle) and 49 of those were scattered all over the floor.  I knew Medicare wouldn't pay for replacement pills and I couldn't afford to buy them myself, so I had to pick them up and clean them off.  Of course the kittens thought it was a new game and tried to help me - in fact, Jimmy found the last one.  What a mess, though thank goodness they were pills and not liquid.

When I talked to folks before coming here, I hadn't expected them to know where Murphy is because it's such a small town (about 5,000) out on the edge of far western North Carolina.  But I've learned that "Manteo to Murphy" is a common phrase - I first heard it in Florida.  Manteo is the town farthest east on the NC mainland, right before you cross bridges to the Outer Banks.  The distance between the two is 544 miles, almost the full width of the state.

One day I got a miscellaneous call from someone claiming to be named "Bruce," who said he was calling because of reports I'm experiencing pain in my lower back.  I hung up but thought it was creepy - what triggered that?  My blog?  That's the only one I've gotten like that.

Mail
I'd given this address to David for sending a batch of my mail, but when I checked with the office, they said they hadn't seen it.  So I checked the tracking number and learned it had been delivered to the campground's mailbox up by the road ("up" because of the campground being down in a valley).  I told the campground and they looked and I helped them, but no mail.

At first I thought they'd just gotten careless, maybe stuck it somewhere for safekeeping because it came a couple of days before I did, but they told me they'd searched and found nothing.  And after a while I figured even if it had been stuck out of the way somewhere, they'd have found it - because I stayed here for a month, plenty of time for it to surface.  Then I saw on the internet that the post office is getting concerned about mail thefts recently and decided that's what had happened to my batch.  That mailbox is easily accessible to anyone with the nerve to do it.  So I called my bank and credit union and credit card company just to generate a notice in their records, though they all said no problems so far.

I guess I've been lucky regarding the mail.  I've been living this way for nearly 5½ years, and this is only the 2nd batch that's been lost.  The other batch was in that post office in far northeast North Dakota and was the only batch that David didn't get a tracking number for.  I'd always ignored those tracking numbers before that, but with this batch in Murphy, I found it really useful to know exactly when and where it got delivered.

Inspiration
I heard on an NPR program an interview with someone about a playwright, now dead.  I don't remember the program, the interviewee or the playwright, but what the person said really stood out to me.  The NPR person said something about how much more the playwright could have done had she not died young, and the interviewee said something along the lines of: It's not reasonable to speculate about what someone would have done if they'd lived longer because they might not have done anything else.  But they have done the things they already did and should be celebrated for those.

I thought that was a great dose of reality - why glorify a hypothetical future if you've got something already here that's worth celebrating.

And along the lines of inspiring people is the Miss Texas who has just finished her one-year reign.  I was stunned at the depth of her fearlessness.  She's the first Asian-American Miss Texas - born and raised in McKinney, which is north of Dallas and just as thoroughly Texas as can be.  And so is this young woman.

She's had the nerve to be herself instead of being just like all the previous beauty queens from the last 50 years - and for instance is very active on various social media.  She holds the views of many in her generation on social and political issues and isn't shy about saying so.  

She made it a point to visit hundreds of schools in Texas during her reign and leaned in on the fact that she's not a blond Caucasian.  The pageant folks were nervous at first - Texas is trying to rival Florida in banning allegedly controversial subjects like race - but this Miss Texas told students what it was like for her to be the only Asian face in her school and how for years she hated her appearance because of being different.  And she told them to recognize that we all have differences and to be kind to each other.  That shouldn't be a controversial position, but this is a strange time.

She did some active lobbying among the state legislators on diversity and inclusion programs, and though they voted differently than she'd asked, she still thinks they listened to her.

My favorite story was about the time she was in the capitol rotunda celebrating the annual rattlesnake roundup in west Texas.  Somebody had brought a big sack of rattlesnakes and let them loose and handed her one.  She was a good sport and videoed the whole episode and posted it on Instagram or TikTok or something with the caption: "Another day, another snake in the Texas state capitol."  I laughed till I cried over that one.  

Here's an article with a lot of other information about this truly fearless young woman.  Miss Texas Averie Bishop's controversial platform: Diversity - The Washington Post  She really gives me hope for this country, if this is a sample of the generation that's coming up next.


Monday, June 12, 2023

North Carolina - Day 2 - a trip to Asheville

Murphy KOA, Murphy
Monday, 12 June 2023

I'd planned to spend one day while I was staying at Murphy to drive over to Asheville, a city I've heard a lot about.  That day came sooner than I expected because my inhaler was so low on dosages that I absolutely had to go now.  Well, that or have trouble breathing so . . . .  And Asheville was the closest location of a CVS.

today's route -
the upper orange line
Google said it'd be a 2-hour drive each way, plus I had a lot of errands to run when we got there, so we left the campground by 6:35, soon after it became light.  The forecast was for rain and there was thick cloud cover, including low clouds in the mountains.  The KOA campground is down in a valley, but once I'm back up on what you might call street level, it's easy to see part of the Blue Ridge Mountains not far away.  Today's drive crossed the Blue Ridge Parkway a couple of times.  Very pretty area.

Past Andrews, the road was designated the Great Smoky Mountains Expressway.  It runs through the Nantahala National Forest and is a long winding road with no shoulder, passing through thick trees.  Oncoming traffic often cut the corners and a couple of times almost hit me because I had no way of pulling over.

Kudzu all over everywhere.

Along the road I came to 3 areas with 7% grade - we were going downhill pretty steadily.  What I found down at the bottom of all that grade was the Little Tennessee River where river rafting seemed to be very popular.  At the Paddle Inn, that offers places to stay along with the rafting, I saw a big Trump 2020 sign.

Later I came to the Tuckasegee River.  At Whittier (no highway sign), I saw a large building labeled "Uncle Bill's Flea Market."  It was there that a guy pulled out right in front of me as if I wasn't there, and I had a car on my left so couldn't pull over.  That left me with one option: to slam on the brakes and hoped they worked.  And that idiot just kept on driving as if he hadn't just escaped death from having an RV slam into the driver's side door.

Asheville is a pretty city of 94,600 residents, and has many amenities, including several dog parks.  I stopped at the one closest to town - French Broad River Park.  At first I was confusing this river with the Broad River in Georgia.  But the Broad flows south to the ocean, where the French Broad flows west into Tennessee.

The French Broad River runs through town and the park is quite large.  I saw people walking a long paved path, some bicycling, and quite a few going to the dog park.  This was a large dog park and all the dogs were well-behaved.  As I'm often seeing these days, Dext was interested and mixed some with the other dogs, but mostly he just wanted to sniff things and mark territory.  I'm assuming he had no spare liquid left in his body by the time he was done.

The road away from there took me by the Biltmore Estate, which is open to visitors - for a minimum price of $79 (not in my budget).  They bill it as America's Largest Home® (the trademark sign is theirs, not mine), and I suppose it is, given its 175,000 square feet.  It was built by George Vanderbilt as a country estate, which seems an odd way to describe such grandeur.  I found this photo online, so you can judge for yourself.

The Biltmore House
Asheville has a strong arts presence, which shows in several ways around town.  One not quite artistic place is a pinball museum.  A zillion years ago I played my share of pinball and was mildly interested in visiting this one, until I found out the admission fee is $15 which, to be fair, includes some game play.  But it was way out of my league.

We stopped at a PetsMart (more food for the kittens), the CVS, a grocery store, and then on to the Montford Historic District.  This area looks like the Hyde Park area in Austin (if it had hills) - lots of houses that are around 100 years old now, lots of big trees.  I'd hoped to stop by a neighborhood park in that area, but many of the streets were narrow, all of them were on hills (makes it hard for me to parallel park the RV), and I decided to look for another place to stop.

We found it at the local visitor center.  This too was built on a pretty steep hill, but the parking areas had been leveled off at different elevations of the hill, so I could get into a spot.  Dext had lots of grass and trees to sniff, plus he met a couple of dogs that were also getting walked.

On the way out of town we stopped at a recycling drop-off center, and I got rid of everything I'd collected, including the plastic #1 clamshells.  A great feeling to be rid of a bathroomful of would-be trash.

Then we drove back southwest, discovering 6% and 7% grades going that way too.  Suddenly the whole valley - and the RV cabin - was filled with smoke.  It smelled like burning tires.  Canadian wildfires?  It was pretty bad for a bit but we finally left it behind us.

One of the forested areas we drove through was named the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.  I was curious whether Kilmer had originally been from this area, but there's apparently no contact.  Kilmer was born in New Brunswick, NJ, and was killed in the Second Battle of the Marne during WWI.  As far as I could tell, the naming of this forest is simply in admiration of Kilmer's poetry in general and, of course, his most famous poem "Trees."

Then we were back through Andrews and back to the campground.  We got in around 4:00.  I had to dump the waste tanks and Dext wanted a walk, which I made a very short one.  And then we all relaxed for the evening.  But we didn't get any rain all day, and it was a productive, pleasant experience.


Thursday, June 1, 2023

North Carolina - Day 1 - getting there

Murphy KOA, Murphy
Thursday, 1 June 2023

Google said today's drive would take 2½ hours, so I figured on an all-day drive.  I knew we'd cover mostly local roads, where I can mostly equal Google's estimates, but I also knew it would cover mountainous areas, where I've found I can rarely drive as fast as the speed limit.  I usually take those curves much more cautiously than someone local would do.  So I left the Anderson, SC, campground at 8:40.

today's route
Not far down the road from Anderson we came to the town of Townville, which indicates a lack of imagination on the part of the early inhabitants, though I'm sure the current residents like the name just fine.

We passed a sign warning "School Prayer Zone" with 2 stick figures: a girl reading a book and a boy kneeling with hands folded in prayer.  It seemed odd to me because why would anyone think passing drivers needed this warning sign?  I just couldn't imagine 2 kids beside the road doing either of these activities (though I used to read books while I was walking home from high school).  So if no kid was expected to be kneeling beside the road (or in the road) why was that sign needed?

South Carolina has a town named Fair Play.  The local myth/history is that the town's name came from a fight between 2 pioneers, when a bystander shouted, "Play fair."  Which of course suggests they hadn't been and isn't much of a character reference for the early folks.  But that's the story.

Westminster seemed a much larger town and labels itself "historic" and the "Gateway to the Mountain Lakes Region."  I see on the map there are several large ones not far from here.

We passed through a massive area of kudzu draped all over everything in its path.

An online photo of kudzu -
kind of creepy, isn't it?
In the small town of Long Creek, I saw a business sign that said "☾ Shine Whiskey."  It took me a minute.

Crossing the Chatooga River put us into Georgia for a short distance, not far from Tallulah Falls where we camped last month.

A sign told us we were passing the turn to Black Rock State Park, saying it's Georgia's highest state park.  At 3,640' elevation, it's got a genuine claim to Georgia fame.

We found ourselves once again on the Blue Ridge Parkway and came to the Continental Divide.  I missed the elevation posted on the sign and can't seem to find it online, but the Black Rock State Park straddles the Continental Divide, so I guess that gives an approximate elevation for this pass.

At the town of Dillard I saw a sign that said:
   Keep America Great
   Trump 2020
   Let Trump Be Trump!

Considering the current criminal charges against the former president for unlawfully retaining top secret documents, including nuclear secrets, I'm sort of hoping Trump decides to become someone else for a change.

And then "Welcome to North Carolina!"

North Carolina
my 48th state
At the town of Franklin we passed the Scottish Tartans Museum, which seemed unusual to me, but maybe this area was colonized by a batch of immigrants from Scotland.

I'd found a dog park in Franklin online, and we found it in reality.  It was what you might call out of the way from any but local traffic, but Google's directions worked out fine and Dext enjoyed the break.

Sadly, Google's directions for how to get back to the highway were abysmal and I ended up wandering around and finally finding the roads I came in on that Google's leaving directions completely missed.  So we're not still wandering around Franklin.  Seemed like a nice little town, but not where we were headed to.

At Franklin we switched to US-64 for the rest of the drive.  Signs told me it was designated a North Carolina Scenic Byway - and it certainly was scenic.  Lots of trees, lots of lupins and paintbrushes along the highway - very pretty.  Very scenic views, too.

And we were back on the Appalachian Highway, driving through the Nantahala National Forest which is so big it seems to cover most of western North Carolina, as you can see from all that green on the route map above.

We passed through the Winding Stair Gap, elevation 3,820' (already higher than Georgia), followed by a 5% grade for the next 2 miles.  Somewhat ominously, a sign there said that by law, all trucks must enter an information area.  From what I could see, NC wanted truckers to be prepared for how to drive on the road ahead.  And that 5% grade was followed by a 7% grade for the following 2 miles.

And we got to Murphy campground at 12:50 - just more than a 4-hour drive.  More than Google said but not as much as I was expecting, which is a good thing.